Huidverzorging

Deze serie over levensverlening is op basis van wetenschappelijke publicaties geschreven. Hierbij is gebruik gemaakt van de National Library of Medicine. Daar waar mogelijk werden studies die opgezet zijn volgens het "placebo controlled cross-over" principe gebruikt. Andere vormen die vaak werden gebruik zijn reviews en epidemiologisch onderzoek. Publicaties uit bladen als The Lancet, American Journal of Cardiology, The New England Journal of Medicine etc. hadden de voorkeur.

Alle artikelen en behandelingsprotocollen zijn volgens het zelfzorg principe geschreven. Bij zelfzorg is niet de arts of specialist maar de patiënt verantwoordelijk voor het correct uitvoeren van de behandeling. Toch adviseer ik patiënten om bij gezondheidsklachten eerst een arts te raadplegen. Een juiste diagnose is ook bij een zelfzorgtraject van onschatbare waarde.

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Huidverzorging

  1. A lifetime of healthy skin: implications for women
    During her lifetime, a woman faces the possibility of seeking dermatological assistance for a myriad of conditions, including acne, rosacea, striae, photodamage, and skin cancers. It is important for clinicians and patients to be aware of the symptoms of these conditions as well as the most beneficial approaches for prevention, diagnosis, treatment, and management. The life expectancy of women has increased and predictions for the year 2050 estimate the average age at 81 years. This will place women at greater risk for dermatological problems, especially photodamage and skin cancer. In addition, various ethnic groups may manifest these conditions differently. Although acne is most prevalent among teenaged males, most can expect clearing by age 25. Females may continue to experience acne into the adult years, sometimes beyond the age of 40. Although it is not a life-threatening disease, acne may have psychosocial and quality-of-life consequences. Treatments for acne can be topical or systemic, and include retinoids, antibiotics, benzoyl peroxide, azelaic acid, and hormonal therapy. Rosacea is more common in women (especially during menopause) than in men. It is a chronic condition that can cause complications, including telangiectasia, conjunctivitis, and blepharitis. Although there is no cure, rosacea can be managed and controlled with medication. Topical antibiotics, such as metronidazole, and systemic antibiotics, such as tetracycline, clarithromycin, and doxycycline, are used to manage rosacea. Striae, or stretch marks, occur most frequently in pregnant women, adolescents experiencing growth spurts, weight lifters, and the obese. Although not a health threat, they can be psychologically distressing. There are not many treatment options for striae, but topical tretinoin and the pulsed dye laser offer promising results. Intrinsic, or normal, aging of the skin results from the process of chronological aging. Photodamage is skin damage caused by chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light. It is the leading cause of extrinsic aging, or alterations of the skin due to environmental exposure. Estimates indicate that almost half of a person's UV exposure occurs by age 18. Photoaging causes numerous histologic, physiologic, and clinical changes; it also increases the risk for skin cancer. Photodamage can be prevented through the use of sun screens, protective clothing, and avoidance of the sun during peak intensity time. The only product approved by the FDA for the treatment of photodamage (fine wrinkles, mottled hyperpigmentation, and skin roughness), topical tretinoin emollient cream, may help prevent additional photoaging when it is used to treat existing photoaging. Other management options for photodamaged skin include alpha-hydroxy acids, antioxidants, antiandrogens, moisturizers, and exfoliants. In patients with excessive manifestations of photodamage, surgical management may be needed, including dermabrasion, chemical peels, soft tissue augmentation, laser resurfacing, botulism toxin, and Gortex threads. Clinicians must educate their patients about the most appropriate skin care regimen as well as approaches for preventing and treating common afflictions. In this way, women will have the best opportunity for having and maintaining healthy skin.
  2. Matrixyl 3000
  3. Matrikines and matricryptins: Implications for cutaneous cancers and skin repair
    Dermatologists are faced daily with the need to optimize skin repair and excise cutaneous cancers. The extracellular matrix plays a pivotal role in cellular migration, proliferation, and gene regulation during wound healing and progression of melanoma, basal cell carcinoma, and squamous cell carcinoma. Within the last few years, a new class of ligand, the matrikine or matricryptin, has been characterized as subdomains of various ECM proteins capable of signaling to the cell through receptors, such as growth factor receptors. Two classes exist: the "natural" matrikines, which signal directly from the extracellular milieu and "cryptic" matrikines (matricryptins) that require proteolytic processing to reveal the ligand or to release the ligand from its ECM protein. Unlike traditional soluble growth factors, most matrikines possess low binding affinity to their receptors and are often presented in multiple valency that likely increase avidity to receptors. The presentation of these ligands within the ECM can result in unique outcomes. The EGF-like repeats of tenascin-C and laminin-5 signal to EGFR preferentially to upregulate migration during skin repair and tumor progression. Other matrikines in collagen, elastin, decorin, and laminin-1 can promote chemotaxis, mitogenesis, and metastasis in cancers, such as melanoma. Finally, the unique properties of matrikines have been utilized in cancer therapeutics and tissue engineering. Within the next few years, the nature and function of this emerging class of matrikine ligands will have an impact on dermatology, as these proteins are altered in wound repair and skin diseases.
  4. Impaired skin barrier function in dermatologic disease and repair with moisturization
    There is a substantial body of data demonstrating that atopic dermatitis and various other skin diseases are associated with disturbances of skin barrier function as evidenced by an increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL), a decrease in water-binding properties, and a reduction in skin surface lipids, specifically levels of ceramides. The results of clinical studies suggest that these deficits can be addressed through the judicious use of appropriate moisturizers, which have been shown to improve skin hydration, reduce susceptibility to irritation, and restore the integrity of the stratum corneum. Some emollients also supply the compromised stratum corneum with vital lipids and accelerate barrier recovery. Moisturizers serve as an important first-line therapeutic option for patients with atopic dermatitis and other chronic skin diseases and can be highly beneficial in improving the clinical signs and symptoms of these challenging dermatologic conditions.
  5. Elastin as a matrikine
    The fact that elastin peptides, the degradation products of the extracellular matrix protein elastin, are chemotactic for numerous cell types, promote cell cycle progression and induce release of proteolytic enzymes by stromal and cancer cells, strongly suggests that their presence in tissues could contribute to tumour progression. Thus, elastin peptides qualify as matrikines, i.e. peptides originating from the fragmentation of matrix proteins and presenting biological activities. After a brief description of their origin, the biological activities of these peptides are reviewed, emphasising their potential role in cancer. The nature of their receptor and the signalling events it controls are also discussed. Finally, the structural selectivity of the elastin complex receptor is presented, leading to the concept of elastokine (matrikine originating from elastin fragmentation) and morpho-elastokine, i.e. peptides presenting a conformation similar to that of bioactive elastin peptides and mimicking their effects.
  6. Matrikines in the regulation of extracellular matrix degradation
    The term "matrikines" was coined for designating peptides liberated by partial proteolysis of extracellular matrix macromolecules, which are able to regulate cell activities. Among these peptides, some of them may modulate proliferation, migration, protease production, or apoptosis. In this review, we summarize the activity of matrikines derived from elastin and interstitial or basement membrane collagens on the regulation of matrix metalloproteinases expression and/or activation, and on the plasminogen/plasmin system. Due to their activity, matrikines may play a significant role in physiological or pathological processes such as wound healing or tumor invasion.
  7. Regulation of cell activity by the extracellular matrix: the concept of matrikines
    The activity of connective tissue cells is modulated by a number of factors present in their environment. In addition to the soluble factors such as hormones, cytokines or growth factors, cells also receive signals from the surrounding extracellular matrix (ECM) macromolecules. Moreover, they may degrade the ECM proteins and liberate peptides which may by themselves constitute new signals for the surrounding cells. Therefore, an actual regulation loop exists in connective tissue, constituted by peptides generated by ECM degradation and connective tissue cells. The term of "matrikine" has been proposed to designate such ECM-derived peptides able to regulate cell activity. In this review, we summarize some data obtained in our laboratory with two different matrikines: the tripeptide glycyl-histidyl-lysine (GHK) and the heptapeptide cysteinyl-asparaginyl-tyrosyl-tyrosyl-seryl-asparaginyl-serine (CNYYSNS). GHK is a potent activator of ECM synthesis and remodeling, whereas CNYYSNS is able to inhibit polymorphonuclear leukocytes activation and decrease the invasive capacities of cancer cells.
  8. Stimulation of skin's energy metabolism provides multiple benefits for mature human skin
    As an organism ages, there is a decline in mitochondrial function and cellular energy balance. This decline is both accelerated by and can cause the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) that damage nuclear and mitochondrial DNA, lipid membranes as well as structural and catalytic proteins, especially those involved in energetic pathways of cells. Further, ROS have also been linked to some of the detrimental skin changes that occur as a result of photoaging. We have previously shown that levels of Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10), a component of the respiratory chain in mitochondria, are reduced in skin cells from aging donors, and that topical supplementation can ameliorate processes involved in skin aging. Creatine is another important component of the cellular energy system and phosphocreatine, its phosphorylated form, functions as a reservoir for high energy phosphates. Unfortunately the creatine system and thus the energy storage mechanism in skin are negatively affected by aging and conditions of oxidative stress. This article reviews some of our in vivo data about the synergistic effects of combining a stabilized form of Creatine with CoQ10 and clearly depicts their beneficial effects as active ingredients in topical formulations.
  9. Coenzyme Q10, a cutaneous antioxidant and energizer
    The processes of aging and photoaging are associated with an increase in cellular oxidation. This may be in part due to a decline in the levels of the endogenous cellular antioxidant coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone, CoQ10). Therefore, we have investigated whether topical application of CoQ10 has the beneficial effect of preventing photoaging. We were able to demonstrate that CoQ10 penetrated into the viable layers of the epidermis and reduce the level of oxidation measured by weak photon emission. Furthermore, a reduction in wrinkle depth following CoQ10 application was also shown. CoQ10 was determined to be effective against UVA mediated oxidative stress in human keratinocytes in terms of thiol depletion, activation of specific phosphotyrosine kinases and prevention of oxidative DNA damage. CoQ10 was also able to significantly suppress the expression of collagenase in human dermal fibroblasts following UVA irradiation. These results indicate that CoQ10 has the efficacy to prevent many of the detrimental effects of photoaging.
  10. Coenzyme Q10--its importance, properties and use in nutrition and cosmetics
    Coenzyme Q10, or ubiquinone, is a nutrient--a vitamin-like substance which plays a crucial role in the generation of cellular energy an in free radical scavenging in the human body. After the age of 35 to 40, the organism begins to lose its ability to synthesize Co Q10 from food and its deficiency develops. Ageing, poor eating habits, stress and infection--they all affect our ability to provide adequate amounts of Co Q10. Therefore Co Q10 supplementation may be very helpful for the organism. The present summarizing study reports the history of the discovery and research, properties, biochemical effects, dosage of Co Q10 deficiency in the human body. A possible use of Co Q10 as a dietary supplement and an ingredient for topical cosmetic products is described.
  11. Antioxidant properties of 2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-6-(10-hydroxydecyl)-1,4-benzoquinone (idebenone)
    Idebenone [2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-6-(10-hydroxydecyl)-1,4-benzoquinone] is a synthetic analogue of coenzyme Q that is currently employed in the treatment of vascular and degenerative diseases of the central nervous system. There is some evidence to suggest that idebenone might function as an antioxidant; however, it has not been demonstrated whether this function pertains to the quinone or hydroquinone form of idebenone. Here we demonstrate that idebenone can scavenge a variety of free radical species, including organic radicals such as 2,2'-azinobis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) and diphenylpicrylhydrazyl, peroxyl and tyrosyl radicals, and peroxynitrite. Idebenone can also redox couple with hypervalent species of Mb or Hb, thus preventing lipid peroxidation promoted by these species. Likewise, idebenone inhibits microsomal lipid peroxidation induced by ADP-iron complexes or organic hydroperoxides. In so doing, idebenone prevents the destruction of cytochrome P450, which otherwise would accompany lipid peroxidation. Irrespective of the experimental system under investigation, idebenone functions by virtue of the electron-donating properties of the hydroquinone form. Redox coupling of this hydroquinone with free radicals generates the quinone compound, which per se lacks antioxidant activity. In many experiments, the antioxidant effects of idebenone become appreciable at approximately 2 microM, which is well in the range of plasma levels attainable in patients given oral doses of this drug. Moreover, comparative experiments have shown that the antioxidant efficiency of idebenone varies from no less than 50% to slightly more than 100% of that of vitamin E or Trolox. We would therefore propose that the neuroprotective effects of idebenone can be attributed, at least in part, to its ability to function as an antioxidant, involving redox cycling between hydroquinone and quinone.
  12. Physiological consequences of human skin aging.
    The expression and treatment of cutaneous disease in the elderly differ from those applicable to younger adults. Anatomical changes in aging skin result in altered physiological behavior and susceptibility to disease. Decreased epidermal renewal and tissue repair accompany the aging process. The rate of hair and nail growth declines, as well as the quantity of eccrine, apocrine, and sebum secretion. There are alterations in immune surveillance and antigen presentation with aging. The cutaneous vascular supply is decreased, leading to decreases in inflammatory response, absorption, and cutaneous clearance. Impaired thermal regulation, tactile sensitivity, and pain perception occur as one ages. We summarize the major changes that occur during the intrinsic aging process of the skin to facilitate the recognition and treatment of skin disease in the older patient
  13. Inhibitory effect of an ellagic acid-rich pomegranate extract on tyrosinase activity and ultraviolet-induced pigment
    A pomegranate extract (PE) from the rind containing 90% ellagic acid was tested for its skin-whitening effect. PE showed inhibitory activity against mushroom tyrosinase in vitro, and the inhibition by the extract was comparable to that of arbutin, which is a known whitening agent. PE, when administered orally, also inhibited UV-induced skin pigmentation on the back of brownish guinea pigs. The intensity of the skin-whitening effect was similar between guinea pigs fed with PE and those fed with L-ascorbic acid. PE reduced the number of DOPA-positive melanocytes in the epidermis of UV-irradiated guinea pigs, but L-ascorbic acid did not. These results suggest that the skin-whitening effect of PE was probably due to inhibition of the proliferation of melanocytes and melanin synthesis by tyrosinase in melanocytes. PE, when taken orally, may be used as an effective whitening agent for the skin.
  14. Pomegranate as a cosmeceutical source: pomegranate fractions promote proliferation and procollagen synthesis and inhibit matrix metalloproteinase-1 production in human skin cells
    Pomegranate (Punica granatum) is an ancient fruit with exceptionally rich ethnomedical applications. The peel (pericarp) is well regarded for its astringent properties; the seeds for conferring invulnerability in combat and stimulating beauty and fertility. Here, aqueous fractions prepared from the fruit's peel and fermented juice and lipophilic fractions prepared from pomegranate seeds were examined for effects on human epidermal keratinocyte and human dermal fibroblast function. Pomegranate seed oil, but not aqueous extracts of fermented juice, peel or seed cake, was shown to stimulate keratinocyte proliferation in monolayer culture. In parallel, a mild thickening of the epidermis (without the loss of ordered differentiation) was observed in skin organ culture. The same pomegranate seed oil that stimulated keratinocyte proliferation was without effect on fibroblast function. In contrast, pomegranate peel extract (and to a lesser extent, both the fermented juice and seed cake extracts) stimulated type I procollagen synthesis and inhibited matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1; interstitial collagenase) production by dermal fibroblasts, but had no growth-supporting effect on keratinocytes. These results suggest heuristic potential of pomegranate fractions for facilitating skin repair in a polar manner, namely aqueous extracts (especially of pomegranate peel) promoting regeneration of dermis, and pomegranate seed oil promoting regeneration of epidermis.
  15. Dual mechanisms of green tea extract (EGCG)-induced cell survival in human epidermal keratinocytes
    Beneficial effects attributed to green tea, such as its anticancer and antioxidant properties, may be mediated by (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG). In this study, the effects of EGCG on cell proliferation and UV-induced apoptosis were investigated in normal epidermal keratinocytes. When topically applied to aged human skin, EGCG stimulated the proliferation of epidermal keratinocytes, which increased the epidermal thickness. In addition, this topical application also inhibited the UV-induced apoptosis of epidermal keratinocytes. EGCG was found to increase the phosphorylation of Bad protein at the Ser112 and Ser136. Moreover, EGCG-induced Erk phosphorylation was found to be critical for the phosphorylation of Ser112 in Bad protein, and the EGCG-induced activation of the Akt pathway was found to be involved in the phosphorylation of Ser136. Furthermore, EGCG increased Bcl-2 expression but decreased Bax expression, causing an increase in the Bcl-2-to-Bax ratio. In addition, we demonstrate the differential growth inhibitory effects of EGCG on cancer cells. In conclusion, this study demonstrates that EGCG promotes keratinocyte survival and inhibits the UV-induced apoptosis via two mechanisms: by phosphorylating Ser112 and Ser136 of Bad protein through Erk and Akt pathways, respectively, and by increasing the Bcl-2-to-Bax ratio. Moreover, these two proposed mechanisms of EGCG-induced cell proliferation may differ kinetically to promote keratinocyte survival.
  16. Cutaneous photoprotection from ultraviolet injury by green tea polyphenols
    Application of green tea extracts resulted in a dose-dependent inhibition of the erythema response evoked by UV radiation. The (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) and (-)-epicatechin-3-gallate (ECG) polyphenolic fractions were most efficient at inhibiting erythema, whereas (-)-epigallocatechin (EGC) and (-)-epicatechin (EC) had little effect. On histologic examination, skin treated with green tea extracts reduced the number of sunburn cells and protected epidermal Langerhans cells from UV damage. Green tea extracts also reduced the DNA damage that formed after UV radiation. CONCLUSION: Polyphenolic extracts of green tea are effective chemopreventive agents for many of the adverse effects of sunlight on human health and may thus serve as natural alternatives for photoprotection.
  17. Skin photoprotection by green tea: antioxidant and immunomodulatory effects
    The in vitro and in vivo animal and human studies suggest that green tea polyphenols are photoprotective in nature, and can be used as pharmacological agents for the prevention of solar UVB light-induced skin disorders including photoaging, melanoma and nonmelanoma skin cancers after more clinical trials in humans.
  18. The green tea polyphenol (-)-epigallocatechin gallate and green tea can protect human cellular DNA from ultraviolet and visible radiation-induced damage
    Initial trials found that EGCG afforded concentration-dependent photoprotection to cultured human cells with a maximal activity at a culture concentration of 250 microM. The cells types tested (lung fibroblasts, skin fibroblasts and epidermal keratinocytes) demonstrated varying susceptibility to the UVR insult provided. The in vivo trials of green tea also demonstrated a photoprotective effect, with samples of peripheral blood cells taken after green tea consumption showing lower levels of DNA damage than those taken prior to ingestion when exposed to 12 min ultraviolet A (UVA) radiation. CONCLUSION: The studies showed that green tea and/or some constituents can offer some protection against UV-induced DNA damage in human cell cultures and also in human peripheral blood samples taken post-tea ingestion.
  19. Green tea polyphenols: DNA photodamage and photoimmunology
    Green tea is a popular beverage consumed worldwide. The epicatechin derivatives, which are commonly called 'polyphenols', are the active ingredients in green tea and possess antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-carcinogenic properties. Studies conducted by our group on human skin have demonstrated that green tea polyphenols (GTP) prevent ultraviolet (UV)-B-induced cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPD), which are considered to be mediators of UVB-induced immune suppression and skin cancer induction. GTP treated human skin prevented penetration of UV radiation, which was demonstrated by the absence of immunostaining for CPD in the reticular dermis. The topical application of GTP or its most potent chemopreventive constituent (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) prior to exposure to UVB protects against UVB-induced local as well as systemic immune suppression in laboratory animals. Additionally, studies have shown that EGCG treatment of mouse skin inhibits UVB-induced infiltration of CD11b+ cells. CD11b is a cell surface marker for activated macrophages and neutrophils, which are associated with induction of UVB-induced suppression of contact hypersensitivity responses. EGCG treatment also results in reduction of the UVB-induced immunoregulatory cytokine interleukin (IL)-10 in skin as well as in draining lymph nodes, and an elevated amount of IL-12 in draining lymph nodes. These in vivo observations suggest that GTPs are photoprotective, and can be used as pharmacological agents for the prevention of solar UVB light-induced skin disorders associated with immune suppression and DNA damage.
  20. Green tea and skin cancer: photoimmunology, angiogenesis and DNA repair
    Human skin is constantly exposed to numerous noxious physical, chemical and environmental agents. Some of these agents directly or indirectly adversely affect the skin. Cutaneous overexposure to environmental solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation (290-400 nm) has a variety of adverse effects on human health, including the development of melanoma and nonmelanoma skin cancers. Therefore, there is a need to develop measures or strategies, and nutritional components are increasingly being explored for this purpose. The polyphenols present in green tea (Camellia sinensis) have been shown to have numerous health benefits, including protection from UV carcinogenesis. (-)-Epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) is the major and most photoprotective polyphenolic component of green tea. In this review article, we have discussed the most recent investigations and mechanistic studies that define and support the photoprotective efficacy of green tea polyphenols (GTPs) against UV carcinogenesis. The oral administration of GTPs in drinking water or the topical application of EGCG prevents UVB-induced skin tumor development in mice, and this prevention is mediated through: (a) the induction of immunoregulatory cytokine interleukin (IL) 12; (b) IL-12-dependent DNA repair following nucleotide excision repair mechanism; (c) the inhibition of UV-induced immunosuppression through IL-12-dependent DNA repair; (d) the inhibition of angiogenic factors; and (e) the stimulation of cytotoxic T cells in a tumor microenvironment. New mechanistic information strongly supports and explains the chemopreventive activity of GTPs against photocarcinogenesis.
  21. A double-blind randomized clinical trial on the effectiveness of a daily glycolic acid 5% formulation in the treatment of photoaging
    Overall there were trends towards greater improvement or less worsening in the glycolic acid group for all clinical assessments for photoaging. There was statistically significant improvement favoring the active-cream in general skin texture and discoloration. There was a trend favoring glycolic acid in reduction of wrinkles, but this did not achieve statistical significance. CONCLUSION: Unneutralized 5% glycolic acid topical cream when used on a regular daily basis can improve some photoaging effects.
  22. Clinical improvement of photoaged skin with 50% glycolic acid. A double-blind vehicle-controlled study
    BACKGROUND: Although there is increasing interest in the use of glycolic acid in the treatment of photoaged skin, to our knowledge, no controlled study has been done to assess the efficacy or the mode of this agent. OBJECTIVE: The purpose of this study was to determine whether 50% glycolic acid can improve photoaged skin and to study the histological basis for this improvement. METHODS: Forty-one volunteers were recruited into this double-blind vehicle-controlled study. Glycolic acid (50%) or vehicle was applied topically for 5 minutes to one side of the face, forearms, and hands, once weekly for 4 weeks. Punch biopsies were taken at pretherapy and at 5 weeks for histologic study. RESULTS: Significant improvement noted included decrease in rough texture and fine wrinkling, fewer solar keratoses, and a slight lightening of solar lentigines. Histology showed thinning of the stratum corneum, granular layer enhancement, and epidermal thickening. Some specimens showed an increase in collagen thickness in the dermis. CONCLUSION: The results of this study demonstrate that the application of 50% glycolic acid peels improves mild photoaging of the skin.
  23. The effects of an estrogen and glycolic acid cream on the facial skin of postmenopausal women: a randomized histologic study
    A prospective, randomized, double-blind study was conducted to determine if estradiol and glycolic acid creams produced a significant reversal of epidermal and dermal markers of aging and if the cumulative effect of the creams was greater than either alone. Sixty-five patients applied a cream containing 0.01% estradiol or 15% glycolic acid, alone or in combination, to one side of the face, and a vehicle cream to the opposite side, for 6 months. A 2-mm punch biopsy was obtained from the hairline of each patient and processed for analysis. The estradiol treatment produced a 23% increase in epidermal thickness (P = .00458); the glycolic acid, a 27% increase (P = .00467); and the combination, a 38% increase (P = .000181). All groups showed a statistically significant improvement in reversing markers (rete peg pattern, epidermal thickness) of skin aging. Although not statistically significant (P = .1), a cumulative effect was seen when estradiol and glycolic acid creams were used in combination.
  24. Photoprotective and antiinflammatory effects of topical glycolic acid
    RESULTS: When UVB-burned skin was treated with glycolic acid daily for 7 days (site 2), a 16% reduction in irritation was observed compared to nontreated skin (site 1), implying that skin healed sooner when treated with glycolic acid. When a comparison of nontreated skin was made to skin treated with glycolic acid for 3 weeks prior to UVB exposure (site 1 vs site 3), a sun protection factor (SPF) of 2.4 was achieved. When a comparison of skin treated for 3 weeks was made to skin treated for 3 weeks and chemically peeled (site 3 vs site 4) the data implied that the chemical peel reduced the SPF value of skin treated with glycolic by approximately 50%, however, an SPF trend of 1.7 was still obtained when compared with untreated skin. CONCLUSIONS. The studies demonstrated that topical glycolic acid provides a photoprotective effect to pretreated skin yielding an SPF of approximately 2.4. In addition, when glycolic acid is applied to irradiated skin, it accelerates resolution of erythema. The data obtained from both studies support the hypothesis that glycolic acids acts as an antioxidant.
  25. Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage
    RESULTS: A statistically significant improvement of the vitamin C-treated side was seen in the decreased photoaging scores of the cheeks (P = 0.006) and the peri-oral area (P = 0.01). The peri-orbital area improved bilaterally, probably indicating improved hydration. The overall facial improvement of the vitamin C side was statistically significant (P = 0.01). Biopsies showed increased Grenz zone collagen, as well as increased staining for mRNA for type I collagen. No patients were found to have any evidence of inflammation. Hydration was improved bilaterally. Four patients felt that the vitamin C-treated side improved unilaterally. No patient felt the placebo side showed unilateral improvement. CONCLUSION: This formulation of vitamin C results in clinically visible and statistically significant improvement in wrinkling when used topically for 12 weeks. This clinical improvement correlates with biopsy evidence of new collagen formation.
  26. Use of topical ascorbic acid and its effects on photodamaged skin topography
    A 3-month daily regimen of topical ascorbic acid provided objective and subjective improvement in photodamaged facial skin. Skin replica optical profilometry is an objective method for quantification of the skin surface texture changes.
  27. Topical ascorbic acid on photoaged skin. Clinical, topographical and ultrastructural evaluation: double-blind study vs. placebo
    Vitamin C is known for its antioxidant potential and activity in the collagen biosynthetic pathway. Photoprotective properties of topically applied vitamin C have also been demonstrated, placing this molecule as a potential candidate for use in the prevention and treatment of skin ageing. A topically applied cream containing 5% vitamin C and its excipient were tested on healthy female volunteers presenting with photoaged skin on their low-neck and arms in view to evaluate efficacy and safety of such treatment. A double-blind, randomized trial was performed over a 6-month period, comparing the action of the vitamin C cream vs. excipient on photoaged skin. Clinical assessments included evaluation at the beginning and after 3 and 6 months of daily treatment. They were performed by the investigator and compared with the volunteer self assessment. Skin relief parameters were determined on silicone rubber replicas performed at the same time-points. Cutaneous biopsies were obtained at the end of the trial and investigated using immunohistochemistry and electron microscopy. Clinical examination by a dermatologist as well as self-assessment by the volunteers disclosed a significant improvement, in terms of the 'global score', on the vitamin C-treated side compared with the control. A highly significant increase in the density of skin microrelief and a decrease of the deep furrows were demonstrated. Ultrastructural evidence of the elastic tissue repair was also obtained and well corroborated the favorable results of the clinical and skin surface examinations. Topical application of 5% vitamin C cream was an effective and well-tolerated treatment. It led to a clinically apparent improvement of the photodamaged skin and induced modifications of skin relief and ultrastructure, suggesting a positive influence of topical vitamin C on parameters characteristic for sun-induced skin ageing.
  28. Marked aging-related decline in efficiency of oxidative phosphorylation in human skin fibroblasts
    An extensive analysis has been carried out of mitochondrial biochemical and bioenergetic properties of fibroblasts, mostly skin-derived, from a large group of subjects ranging in age between 20 wk fetal and 103 yr. A striking age-related change observed in a fundamental process underlying mitochondrial biogenesis and function was the very significant decrease in rate of mitochondrial protein synthesis in individuals above 40 yr. The analysis of endogenous respiration rate revealed a significant decrease in the age range from 40 to 90 yr and a tendency to uncoupling in the samples from subjects above 60 yr. A surprising finding was the occurrence of a subgroup of individuals >or=90 yr old whose skin fibroblasts exhibited an exceptionally high respiration rate. This high rate was not due to respiration uncoupling, rather pointing to a compensatory phenomenon, not involving an increase in mtDNA content, in the corresponding skin fibroblast populations, or, possibly, to a selection of a different cell type secondary to more extensive dermal atrophy. The most important aging-related phenotypic effects observed were those that affected the cell oxidative phosphorylation (OX-PHOS) capacity. These were, in particular, the very significant reduction in the ratio of uncoupled to oligomycin-inhibited endogenous respiration observed in intact fibroblasts, which pointed to a decrease with donor's age in the control of respiration by the mitochondrial membrane potential, the very significant decrease in efficiency of OX-PHOS, as determined by novel in situ measurements of P:O ratios, and, consistent with these results, the very significant reduction in the respiratory control ratios. These findings clearly pointed to a dramatic mitochondrial dysfunction, which would lead to a decrease in ATP synthesis rate, with the observed decline in mitochondrial protein synthesis rate being a likely contributing factor. These observations have important implications for understanding the biology of aging, as well as the pathogenesis of aging-related degenerative diseases.
  29. alpha-Hydroxy acid-based cosmetic procedures. Guidelines for patient management
    alpha-Hydroxy acid (AHA) peels and home regimens have recently been recognized as important adjunctive therapy in a variety of conditions including photodamage, actinic damage, melasma, hyperpigmentation disorders, acne, and rosacea. Overall in our experience and in the literature, AHAs have a proven level of safety and efficacy in a variety of skin types. Although their exact mechanism of action is unknown, it has been demonstrated that AHAs improve these disorders by thinning the stratum corneum, promoting epidermolysis, dispersing basal layer melanin, and increasing collagen synthesis within the dermis. In patients with photodamage, AHA peels and topical products are often combined with retinoids and other antioxidants for maximum benefit. Similarly, synergistic effects of fluorouracil and glycolic acid are observed in the treatment of diffuse actinic keratoses. For patients with melasma, AHA peels and combination products containing bleaching agents such as hydroquinone, kojic acid, and glycolic acid seem to have increased efficacy. Acne and rosacea patients can see improved results when standard regimens like antibacterials and topical retinoids are supplemented with AHA peels and lotions. However, care should always be taken prior to commencing treatment with AHA peels and topical products. By obtaining a thorough history and physical examination, the physician will identify any specific factors like medications, prior procedures and medical conditions which can affect the outcome of the peel. During the interview, there should be open discussion of patient questions and concerns so that realistic expectations can be made. Pre- and post-peel regimens should also be reviewed in full as patient compliance is essential to ensure the success of a series of AHA peels.
  30. Skin care, chemical face peeling, and skin rejuvenation
    Chemical face peeling is the application of solutions to the face to lift off various layers of the skin and remove wrinkles. Three types of chemical peels are currently available. Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) peels are the most mild and, in lower concentrations, can be applied by nurses. Trichloracetic acid (TCA) peels are designed for peels of medium depth. Phenol peels are the oldest form of chemical peels and are used to remove deeper wrinkles. Skin care, including sun block, is important to the success of all three types of peel.
  31. Alpha-hydroxyacid chemical peeling agents: case studies and rationale for safe and effective use
    Chemical peeling is an in-office procedure that involves the application of a chemical agent to the skin to induce controlled destruction or exfoliation of old skin and stimulation of new epidermal growth with more evenly distributed melanin. When peel agents reach the dermal layer, important wound-healing activities occur that cause skin remodeling and skin smoothing, both antiaging benefits. There are a number of key factors in selecting a peeling agent and procedure, and each is discussed. Variables to consider are the peeling agent and its formulation, the concentration of the agent, the patient's skin type, the site to be peeled, the skin preparation procedure prior to and immediately preceding the application of the agent, the application method, the duration of contact, and the patient's medical history and lifestyle. Various types of peels are discussed. Of particular interest are superficial chemical peels, which offer great flexibility over a range of skin types and conditions with minimal to no "downtime." Alpha-hydroxyacid (AHA) peels are superficial and can be combined with other cosmetic procedures in the office to maximize benefits. In addition, AHA peels work well when combined with supportive homecare products including AHAs or polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), topical retinoids, and antiacne/antirosacea treatments. Case studies are presented of patients using AHA peels for the treatment of acne and hyperpigmentation in a variety of skin types, including Asian skin.
  32. Cosmetic use of alpha-hydroxy acids
    Frequent and daily use of cosmetic and skin-care products that contain alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) moisturizes the skin and produces smoother, less-wrinkled skin surfaces. The cosmetic products developed as astringents and exfoliants diminish skin scales and remove excess skin oil. New studies suggest that photodamaged skin improves with AHA treatment.
  33. Clinical efficacy assessment in photodamaged skin of 0.5% and 1.0% idebenone
    Idebenone is an antioxidant lower molecular weight analogue of coenzyme Q10. Previously, idebenone was shown to be a very effective antioxidant in its ability to protect against cell damage from oxidative stress in a variety of biochemical, cell biological, and in vivo methods, including its ability to suppress sunburn cell (SBC) formation in living skin. However, no clinical studies have been previously conducted to establish the efficacy of idebenone in a topical skincare formulation for the treatment of photodamaged skin. In this nonvehicle control study, 0.5% and 1.0% idebenone commercial formulations were evaluated in a clinical trial for topical safety and efficacy in photodamaged skin. Forty-one female subjects, aged 30-65, with moderate photodamaged skin were randomized to use a blind labelled (either 0.5% or 1.0% idebenone in otherwise identical lotion bases) skincare preparation twice daily for six weeks. Blinded expert grader assessments for skin roughness/dryness, fine lines/wrinkles, and global improvement in photodamage were performed at baseline, three weeks and six weeks. Electrical conductance readings for skin surface hydration and 35 mm digital photography were made at baseline after six weeks. Punch biopsies were taken from randomly selected subjects, baseline and after six weeks, and stained for certain antibodies (interleukin IL-6, interleukin IL-1b, matrixmetalloproteinase MMP-1, collagen I) using immunofluorescence microscopy. After six weeks' use of the 1.0% idebenone formula, a 26% reduction in skin roughness/dryness was observed, a 37% increase in skin hydration, a 29% reduction in fine lines/wrinkles, and a 33% improvement in overall global assessment of photodamaged skin. For the 0.5% idebenone formulation, a 23% reduction in skin roughness/dryness was observed, a 37% increase in skin hydration, a 27% reduction in fine lines/wrinkles, and a 30% improvement in overall global assessment of photodamaged skin. The immunofluorescence staining revealed a decrease in IL-1b, IL-6, and MMP-1 and an increase in collagen I for both concentrations.
  34. A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study on the clinical efficacy of oral treatment with DermaVite on ageing symptoms of the skin
    In this double-blind, placebo-controlled study, 40 women with ageing symptoms of the skin were randomized to receive DermaVite, a new preparation containing marine proteins, alpha-lipoic acid, pine bark extract, vitamins and minerals (n = 20), or placebo (n = 20) twice daily for 6 months. Objective measurements of skin thickness and elasticity, together with subjective clinical assessments of various parameters (fine wrinkles, coarse wrinkles, tactile roughness and teleangiectasia) were used to evaluate changes after 2, 4 and 6 months' treatment. Self-evaluations were also made by the study participants. There was a significant improvement in skin quality in both objective and subjective parameters after treatment with Dermavite compared with placebo. Participants' self-evaluations also showed a statistically significant difference in favour of the active treatment. The treatment was very well tolerated. Based on this efficacy and tolerability study, DermaVite can be considered a suitable therapy for ageing symptoms of the skin.
  35. Randomized, placebo-controlled, double blind study on the clinical efficacy of a cream containing 5% alpha-lipoic acid related to photoageing of facial skin
    BACKGROUND: alpha-lipoic acid (LA) or the reduced form dihydrolipoate (DHLA) is a potent scavenger with anti-inflammatory properties. Previous uncontrolled studies with topical treatment with 5% LA-containing creams indicate a beneficial effect on photoageing skin. OBJECTIVE: The purpose of this study was to investigate whether a cream containing 5% LA showed any advantages concerning a number of the criteria associated with ageing of the facial skin, compared with an identical cream lacking LA. MATERIAL AND METHODS: Thirty-three women, mean age 54.4 years, were included in this controlled study. After randomization half the face was treated twice daily for 12 weeks with the LA cream and the other half with the control cream. The following methods of assessment were used: self-evaluation by the test subjects, clinical evaluation, photographic evaluation and laser profilometry. Profilometry was performed before the start of treatment and at the end. RESULTS: All four methods of assessment showed a statistically significant improvement on the LA-treated half of the face. Laser profilometry, the most objective method used, showed an average decrease in skin roughness of 50.8% (44.9-54.0) on the LA-treated side, compared with 40.7% (32.4-48.7) on the placebo-treated half of the face P < 0.001 (Wilcoxon matched pairs test). CONCLUSIONS: It is indicated that 12 weeks of treatment with a cream containing 5% LA improves clinical characteristics related to photoageing of facial skin.
  36. Low molecular weight antioxidants and their role in skin ageing
    There is increasing evidence that reactive oxygen species play a pivotal role in the process of ageing. The skin, as the outermost barrier of the body, is exposed to various exogenous sources of oxidative stress, in particular UV-irradiation. These are believed to be responsible for the extrinsic type of skin ageing, termed photo-ageing. It therefore seems reasonable to try to increase levels of protective low molecular weight antioxidants through a diet rich in fruits and vegetables or by direct topical application. Indeed, various in vitro and animal studies have proved that low molecular weight antioxidants, especially vitamins C and E, ascorbate and tocopherol, as well as lipoic acid, exert protective effects against oxidative stress. However, controlled long-term studies on the efficacy of low molecular weight antioxidants in the prevention or treatment of skin ageing in humans are still lacking.
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