Wetenschappelijke informatie over huidverzorging

Het protocol voor huidbehandeling is op basis van wetenschappelijke publicaties ontwikkeld. Hierbij is gebruik gemaakt van hoog gekwalificerd recent onderzoek dat wordt gepubliceerd in de PubMed database. placebo controlled onderzoek, meta analyses en reviews hebben de voorkeur. Dit soort onderzoek valt onder Evidence Based Medicine.

Alle artikelen en behandelingsprotocollen zijn volgens het zelfzorg principe geschreven. Bij zelfzorg is niet de arts of specialist maar de patiënt verantwoordelijk voor het correct uitvoeren van de behandeling. Toch adviseer ik patiënten om bij gezondheidsklachten eerst een arts te raadplegen. Een juiste diagnose is ook bij een zelfzorgtraject van onschatbare waarde. Als u reeds onder behandeling bent van een arts overleg dan met uw arts voordat u voedingssupplementen gaat gebruiken.

Copyright © 2007 - pilliewillie.nl

General

    REVIEW
  1. Puizina-Ivi? N1, Miri? L, Carija A, Karlica D, Marasovi? D. Coll Antropol. 2010 Sep;34(3):1145-53. Modern approach to topical treatment of aging skin
    The main processes involved in skin aging are intrinsic and extrinsic. Apart from them, so called stochastic aging connotes cell damage caused by metabolic processes, free radicals and cosmic irradiation. The clinical expression of intrinsic aging include smooth, dry, and thinned skin with accentuated expression lines. It is inevitable and time dependent. Extrinsically aged skin shows signs of photodamage which include appearance of wrinkles, pigmented lesions, actinic keratoses and patchy hypopigmentations. Therapeutic modalities imply photoprotection with sunscreens that prevent sunburns and block ultraviolet irradiation. Other modalities include use of retinoids which regulate gene transcription with subsequent cellular differentiation and proliferation. The topical and peroral administration of network antioxidants, such as vitamin E and C, coenzyme Q10, alpha-lipoic acid and glutathione, enhance antiaging effect. The other antioxidants such as green tea, dehydroepiandrosterone, melatonin, selenium and resveratrol, have also antiaging and anti-inflammatory effects. Topical bleaching agents such as hydroquinone, kojic acid and azelaic acid can reduce signs of aging. Studies confirm the efficacy of these topical agents in combination with superficial and/or medium depth or deep peeling agents for photodamaged skin treatment. Indications for type of chemical peels according to various clinical diagnosis are done, as well as advantages and disadvantages of different types of chemical peels.[Abstract]
    2. REVIEW
  2. Griffiths CE. Drugs Aging. 1999 Apr;14(4):289-301. Drug treatment of photoaged skin
    Although the prevention of skin aging is a holy grail of the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries, this venture may be misplaced. The predominant clinical and biochemical features of aged skin are mostly attributable to photoaging rather than chronology. For instance chronic sun exposure is the major determinant of age spots (actinic lentigines) and wrinkles. Surgical approaches to the treatment of photoaging include face-lift, dermabrasion, chemical peeling, collagen and botulinum toxin injections, and laser re-surfacing. These approaches all have benefit and improve the clinical features of facial photoaging. Drug or pharmaceutical prevention and treatment of photoaged skin is still in its infancy. The main pharmaceutical approach to prevention of photoaging lies in the assiduous use of sunscreens. Recent evidence points to the importance of ultraviolet A (UVA) radiation as well as ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation in the aetiology of photoaging and thus the need for sunscreens that block both UVB and UVA. Drug treatment of photoaged skin can be categorised as antioxidants, alpha-hydroxy acids and topical retinoids. Of these 3 approaches only topical retinoids, particularly tretinoin (all-trans retinoic acid), have a well documented ability to repair photoaged skin at the clinical, histological and molecular level. Furthermore, the use of topical retinoids may actually prevent photoaging. The current interest in pharmaceutical modulation of the photoaging process has attracted considerable research into the mechanisms of photoaging and cutaneous aging. It is likely that treatment for, or prevention of, the chronological aging process may result from such research.[Abstract]
    3. REVIEW
  3. Puizina-Ivi? N. Acta Dermatovenerol Alp Pannonica Adriat. 2008 Jun;17(2):47-54. Skin aging
    There are two main processes that induce skin aging: intrinsic and extrinsic. A stochastic process that implies random cell damage as a result of mutations during metabolic processes due to the production of free radicals is also implicated. Extrinsic aging is caused by environmental factors such as sun exposure, air pollution, smoking, alcohol abuse, and poor nutrition. Intrinsic aging reflects the genetic background and depends on time. Various expressions of intrinsic aging include smooth, thinning skin with exaggerated expression lines. Extrinsically aged skin is characterized by photo damage as wrinkles, pigmented lesions, patchy hypopigmentations, and actinic keratoses. Timely protection including physical and chemical sunscreens, as well as avoiding exposure to intense UV irradiation, is most important. A network of antioxidants such as vitamins E and C, coenzyme Q10, alpha-lipoic acid, glutathione, and others can reduce signs of aging. Further anti-aging products are three generations of retinoids, among which the first generation is broadly accepted. A diet with lot of fruits and vegetables containing antioxidants is recommended as well as exercise two or three times a week..[Abstract]
    4. REVIEW
  4. Chung JH1, Eun HC. J Dermatol. 2007 Sep;34(9):593-600. Angiogenesis in skin aging and photoaging
    Angiogenesis, the process of generating new blood vessels, is affected by various physiological and pathological conditions of skin. The skin aging process can be divided into intrinsic aging and photoaging. With aging, cutaneous blood vessels undergo pronounced alterations. A reduction of the cutaneous microvasculature has been observed in the skin of elderly individuals. Human skin is exposed daily to solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation, infrared rays and heat, and these stimuli are known to induce skin angiogenesis. Interestingly, although acute UV irradiation stimulates skin angiogenesis, cutaneous blood vessels are decreased in chronically photodamaged skin. The reason for the differential effects of acute and chronic UV exposure on skin angiogenesis remains to be elucidated. This review discusses the vascularization changes in intrinsically aged and photoaged human skin, the effects of UV irradiation, infrared rays and heat on skin angiogenesis, and the effects of topical retinoic acid treatment on UV-induced angiogenesis and cutaneous vascularity in aged and photoaged human skin. An understanding of the molecular mechanisms of aging- and photoaging-dependent changes of skin angiogenesis may provide us with new insights to prevent and treat the skin aging process.[Abstract]
    5. RCT
  5. Lee JY1, Kim YK, Seo JY, Choi CW, Hwang JS, Lee BG, Chang IS, Chung JH. J Dermatol Sci. 2008 May;50(2):99-107. doi: 10.1016/j.jdermsci.2007.11.010. Loss of elastic fibers causes skin wrinkles in sun-damaged human skin.
    Our results provide an objective insight into the role of elastic fibers in skin wrinkle formation by providing a quantitative correlation between changes in oxytalan fibers and the severity of skin wrinkling.[Abstract]

  6. .[Abstract]

Tretenoine

    Jetske Ultee

  1. Jetske Ultee Dé blog over huidverzorging VITAMINE A ZUUR
    .[Article]
  2. From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Retinoic acid
    Retinoic acid is a metabolite of vitamin A (retinol) that mediates the functions of vitamin A required for growth and development.[Article]

    3. Collagen repair

  3. Kircik LH. J Drugs Dermatol. 2012 Sep;11(9):1036-40. Histologic improvement in photodamage after 12 months of treatment with tretinoin emollient cream (0.02%)
    The histologic changes in all subjects could be attributed to a remodeling (elastin) or repair (collagen) process that affected the connective tissue fibers in all layers of the dermis. These results suggest that tretinoin 0.02% may be an effective treatment for photodamage, and additional evaluation is warranted in future studies.[Abstract]
  4. Ellis CN1, Weiss JS, Hamilton TA, Headington JT, Zelickson AS, Voorhees JJ. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1990 Oct;23(4 Pt 1):629-37. Sustained improvement with prolonged topical tretinoin (retinoic acid) for photoaged skin
    Histologic findings included a statistically significant thickening of the epidermis. Side effects were limited to a cutaneous retinoid reaction that diminished as therapy proceeded.[Abstract]
    5. CLINICAL
  5. Yamamoto O1, Bhawan J, Solares G, Tsay AW, Gilchrest BA. Exp Dermatol. 1995 Jun;4(3):146-54. Ultrastructural effects of topical tretinoin on dermo-epidermal junction and papillary dermis in photodamaged skin. A controlled study
    These observations provide further evidence that topical treatment with 0.05% tretinoin produces papillary dermal reconstruction, for which more than 6 months of application were required.[Abstract]

    6. Photodamage repair

    REVIEW
  6. Leyden JJ. Br J Dermatol. 1990 Apr;122 Suppl 35:83-6. Tretinoin therapy in photoageing: historical perspective
    Tretinoin was shown in the late 1960s to be useful for the treatment of disorders associated with abnormal epithelial differentiation; however, because of irritation, retinoids were only slowly accepted. In the 1970s, evidence accumulated to show that topical tretinoin could modulate many of the abnormalities in the epidermis and dermis associated with photoageing. It has been shown in hairless mice that tretinoin can reverse dermal elastosis with the formation of new collagen and this has led to clinical trials being carried out in man. Randomized, controlled trials have shown that topical tretinoin is effective in the treatment of photoaged skin.[Abstract]
  7. Samuel M1, Brooke RC, Hollis S, Griffiths CE. Cochrane Database Syst Rev. 2005 Jan 25;(1):CD001782. Interventions for photodamaged skin
    There is conclusive evidence that topical tretinoin improves the appearance of mild to moderate photodamage on the face and forearms, in the short term. However erythema, scaling/dryness, burning/stinging and irritation may be experienced initially. [Abstract]
  8. Marks R1, Lever L. Br J Dermatol. 1990 Apr;122 Suppl 35:93-5. Studies on the effects of topical retinoic acid on photoageing
    Tretinoin has been previously shown in animal and clinical studies to stimulate epidermal cell production and to be effective in the treatment of solar keratoses. A double-blind, placebo-controlled study confirmed that topical tretinoin produced an overall improvement in photoaged skin and decreased solar keratoses. There is no evidence that tretinoin has an irritative effect, nor is there any evidence that the improvement in appearance is due to oedema.[Abstract]
  9. Weiss JS1, Ellis CN, Headington JT, Tincoff T, Hamilton TA, Voorhees JJ JAMA. 1988 Jan 22-29;259(4):527-32. Topical tretinoin improves photoaged skin. A double-blind vehicle-controlled study
    Statistically significant histologic changes were seen in forearm skin treated with tretinoin, but not with vehicle cream. Side effects were limited to irritation of tretinoin-exposed skin.[Abstract]
  10. Kang S. Dermatol Clin. 1998 Apr;16(2):357-64. Photoaging and tretinoin
    Premature skin aging caused by repeated exposure to solar radiation is called photoaging. Although once considered an irreversible process, it is now established that photoaging can be treated by topical tretinoin. Both from carefully designed controlled clinical studies; and basic investigations into the mechanism by which tretinoin improves photoaged skin, our understanding of photoaging has been enhanced. This article highlights some of these studies which have contributed to our knowledge.[Abstract]
    11. REVIEW
  11. Kang S1, Fisher GJ, Voorhees JJ. Arch Dermatol. 1997 Oct;133(10):1280-4. Photoaging and topical tretinoin: therapy, pathogenesis, and prevention
    Repeated exposure to UV radiation from the sun causes premature skin aging. This photoaging is characterized by wrinkles, mottled pigmentations, dry and rough skin, and loss of skin tone. Since the clinical demonstration that the use of topical tretinoin can improve photoaged skin, a great deal of knowledge that may explain wrinkle effacement has been acquired.[Abstract]
    12. RCT
  12. Griffiths CE1, Kang S, Ellis CN, Kim KJ, Finkel LJ, Ortiz-Ferrer LC, White GM, Hamilton TA, Voorhees JJ. Arch Dermatol. 1995 Sep;131(9):1037-44. Two concentrations of topical tretinoin (retinoic acid) cause similar improvement of photoaging but different degrees of irritation. A double-blind, vehicle-controlled comparison of 0.1% and 0.025% tretinoin creams
    Tretinoin 0.1% and 0.025% produce similar clinical and histologic changes in patients with photoaging, despite significantly greater incidence of irritation with the higher concentration. The separation between clinical improvement and irritation suggests that mechanisms other than irritation dominate tretinoin-induced repair of photoaging in humans.[Abstract]
    13. RCT
  13. Andreano JM1, Bergfeld WF, Medendorp SV. Cleve Clin J Med. 1993 Jan-Feb;60(1):49-55. Tretinoin emollient cream 0.01% for the treatment of photoaged skin
    On forearms, dermatitis was the most common adverse event. Tretinoin 0.01% was generally well tolerated, and skin irritation was minimal. Tretinoin emollient cream 0.01% is a potentially safe, effective treatment for photodamaged skin.[Abstract]
  14. Singh M1, Griffiths CE. Dermatol Ther. 2006 Sep-Oct;19(5):297-305. The use of retinoids in the treatment of photoaging
    Although a number of surgical procedures can improve the clinical appearance of photoaged skin, the only medical therapy with proved benefit derived from randomized clinical trial evidence is the use of topical retinoids, particularly tretinoin, isotretinoin, and tazarotene. Retinoids are capable not only of repairing photoaged skin at both the clinical and biochemical levels but their use may prevent photoaging. There is in addition emerging evidence that topical retinoids could be beneficial in the treatment of intrinsically aged skin.[Abstract]
    15. REVIEW
  15. Stratigos AJ1, Katsambas AD. Drugs. 2005;65(8):1061-72. The role of topical retinoids in the treatment of photoaging
    Overwhelming clinical and histological evidence indicate that certain structural changes induced by excessive sun exposure can be reversed, to some extent, by the use of topical retinoids. A number of retinoid compounds, for example tretinoin, isotretinoin, retinaldehyde and tazarotene, have been employed for the treatment of photoaged skin, and demonstrate beneficial clinical and histological effects. Adverse effects have been limited to an irritant reaction of variable intensity presenting with dryness, scaling and erythema.[Abstract]
    16. REVIEW
  16. Griffiths CE. Clin Exp Dermatol. 2001 Oct;26(7):613-8. The role of retinoids in the prevention and repair of aged and photoaged skin
    Emerging evidence indicates that intrinsic, chronological ageing of the skin shares several mechanistic features with photoageing. Indeed aged skin is characterized by retinoid sensitivity and is probably reparable by application of topical retinoids..[Abstract]
    17. REVIEW
  17. Goldfarb MT1, Ellis CN, Weiss JS, Voorhees JJ J Am Acad Dermatol. 1989 Sep;21(3 Pt 2):645-50. Topical tretinoin therapy: its use in photoaged skin
    Therapy is most successful when a liberal amount of tretinoin 0.1% cream is applied to the skin daily. Tretinoin cream has an excellent safety record; a local cutaneous hypervitaminosis A reaction is the only common problem.[Abstract]

    18. Melasma repair

  18. Grimes P1, Watson J. Cutis. 2013 Jan;91(1):47-54. Treating epidermal melasma with a 4% hydroquinone skin care system plus tretinoin cream 0.025%
    The 4% hydroquinone skin care system plus tretinoin cream 0.025% is effective and well-tolerated in the treatment of melasma.[Abstract]

    19. Hyperpigmention repair

  19. Griffiths CE1, Goldfarb MT, Finkel LJ, Roulia V, Bonawitz M, Hamilton TA, Ellis CN, Voorhees JJ. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1994 Jan;30(1):76-84. Topical tretinoin (retinoic acid) treatment of hyperpigmented lesions associated with photoaging in Chinese and Japanese patients: a vehicle-controlled trial
    By clinical, colorimetric, and histologic evaluation, 0.1% tretinoin cream significantly lightens the hyperpigmentation of photoaging in Chinese and Japanese patients.[Abstract]
    20. RCT
  20. Ho ET1, Trookman NS, Sperber BR, Rizer RL, Spindler R, Sonti S, Gotz V, Mehta R. J Drugs Dermatol. 2012 Jan;11(1):64-9. A randomized, double-blind, controlled comparative trial of the anti-aging properties of non-prescription tri-retinol 1.1% vs. prescription tretinoin 0.025%
    Both test products significantly improved signs of photodamage, including fine and coarse periocular wrinkles, skin firmness, skin tone, mottled pigmentation, tactile roughness, overall photodamage and global photodamage improvement. There were no significant differences in efficacy between the two products for these assessments. The adverse effects (which were graded as mild or less) were those typically seen with topical retinoids. Subjects reported >93 percent overall satisfaction with both products at weeks 8 and 12.[Abstract]
    21. CLINICAL
  21. Woodley DT1, Zelickson AS, Briggaman RA, Hamilton TA, Weiss JS, Ellis CN, Voorhees JJ. JAMA. 1990 Jun 13;263(22):3057-9. Treatment of photoaged skin with topical tretinoin increases epidermal-dermal anchoring fibrils. A preliminary report
    After 4 months of continual daily treatment, skin sites that received topical tretinoin showed double the anchoring fibril density compared with vehicle control sites (1.34 anchoring fibrils per micron of lamina densa vs 0.65, respectively). The possible mechanisms by which topical tretinoin increases anchoring fibrils in skin include the drug's property of inhibiting collagenase, a dermal enzyme that degrades anchoring fibril collagen. We speculate that increased numbers of collagenous anchoring fibrils within the papillary dermis of human skin is one of the connective-tissue correlates of the clinical improvement observed in photoaged skin after treatment with topical tretinoin.[Abstract]

    22. Wrinkle repair

    REVIEW
  22. Helander SD. Drugs Aging. 1996 Jan;8(1):12-6. Treatment of photoaged skin. Efficacy, tolerability and costs of available agents
    Many well constructed trials confirm the clinical efficacy of topical tretinoin for improving fine wrinkling and mild to moderate hyperpigmentation; coarse wrinkling and severe hyperpigmentation respond less well. Histological improvement is well documented, but the precise relationship to clinical response is not clearly established.[Abstract]
  23. Kim H1, Kim N, Jung S, Mun J, Kim J, Kim B, Lee J, Ryoo H, Jung H. Br J Dermatol. 2010 Mar;162(3):497-502. doi: 10.1111/j.1365-2133.2009.09483.x. Improvement in skin wrinkles from the use of photostable retinyl retinoate: a randomized controlled trial
    Retinyl retinoate applied twice daily was significantly more effective than a placebo or retinol in treating periorbital wrinkles. Importantly, no severe side-effects were observed.[Abstract]

    24. Safety

    REVIEW
  24. Mukherjee S1, Date A, Patravale V, Korting HC, Roeder A, Weindl G. Clin Interv Aging. 2006;1(4):327-48. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety
    Although retinoids show promise in the treatment of skin aging, irritant reactions such as burning, scaling or dermatitis associated with retinoid therapy limit their acceptance by patients. .[Abstract]
    25. RCT
  25. Kang S1, Bergfeld W, Gottlieb AB, Hickman J, Humeniuk J, Kempers S, Lebwohl M, Lowe N, McMichael A, Milbauer J, Phillips T, Powers J, Rodriguez D, Savin R, Shavin J, Sherer D, Silvis N, Weinstein R, Weiss J, Hammerberg C, Fisher GJ, Nighland M, Grossman R, Nyirady J. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):245-53. Long-term efficacy and safety of tretinoin emollient cream 0.05% in the treatment of photodamaged facial skin: a two-year, randomized, placebo-controlled trial
    Long-term treatment with tretinoin emollient cream 0.05% is safe and effective in subjects with moderate to severe facial photodamage.[Abstract]
    26. REVIEW
  26. Bhawan J. Int J Dermatol. 1998 Apr;37(4):286-92. Short- and long-term histologic effects of topical tretinoin on photodamaged skin
    Although there does not seem to be a direct correlation between histologic changes and clinical improvement, the major structural changes appear to be directed at restoring the skin to the pre-sun-damaged state.[Abstract]
    27. CLINICAl
  27. Goldfarb MT1, Ellis CN, Voorhees JJ. Br J Dermatol. 1990 Apr;122 Suppl 35:87-91. Topical tretinoin: its use in daily practice to reverse photoageing
    Tretinoin treatment produced an improvement in the signs of extrinsic ageing compared with the vehicle-treated areas. Fine wrinkling was improved most, although coarse wrinkling, brown spots, tactile roughness and overall skin colour also showed clear improvement. The majority of lentigines and sun-induced freckles showed some reduction in coloration with extended treatment.[Abstract]
  28. Kligman Department of Dermatology, University of Pennsylvania The treatment of Photoaged Skin by Topcial Tretinoin .[Article]
  29. ACID A VIT 0,05% crème BIJSLUITER
    Het werkzame bestanddeel is tretinoïne 0,05% w/w. Acid A Vit is een geneesmiddel dat door de arts wordt voorgeschreven voor de behandeling van acne. [Article]

  30. .[Abstract]

Alpha hydroxyacids

  1. Julia A. Kneedler, Sharon S. Sky, and Linda R. Sexton firstskinfoundation.org/
    The skin-rejuvenating properties of certain alpha-hydroxy acids have been known for centuries. Cleopatra allegedly bathed in spoiled milk, which contains lactic acid, and the women of the French court washed their faces in spoiled wine, which contains tartaric acid. Today, alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are widely used in skin care products. They are the most popular ingredient to enter that marketplace in recent years. In 1996, researchers Perricone and DiNardo reported that approximately forty-five companies were manufacturing over two hundred AHA-containing products, ranging from over-the-counter moisturizers and cosmetics to chemical peels administered by physicians.[Article]
    2. RCT
  2. Berardesca E1, Distante F, Vignoli GP, Oresajo C, Green B. Br J Dermatol. 1997 Dec;137(6):934-8. Alpha hydroxyacids modulate stratum corneum barrier function
    Alpha hydroxyacids (AHAs) are used to enhance stratum corneum desquamation and improve skin appearance. The purpose of this study was to evaluate whether some AHAs improve skin barrier function and prevent skin irritation. This study shows that AHAs can modulate stratum corneum barrier function and prevent skin irritation; the effect is not equal for all AHAs, being more marked for the molecules characterized by antioxidant properties.[Abstract]
    3. CLINICAL
  3. Edison BL1, Green BA, Wildnauer RH, Sigler ML. Cutis. 2004 Feb;73(2 Suppl):14-7. A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimen
    Stinging and burning were significantly worse for subjects in the AHA treatment group at both week 6 and 12, and degree of sensitivity was rated worse for the AHA regimen as well. The present study shows the enhanced mildness of PHAs and their equivalence in providing antiaging benefits compared with an AHA regimen.[Abstract]
    4. CLINICAL
  4. Schreml S1, Meier RJ, Albert MG, Seidl U, Zeller V, Behm B, Landthaler M, Abels C, Babilas P. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2012;25(1):34-8. doi: 10.1159/000331204. The impact of 10% ?-hydroxy acid emulsion on skin pH
    After a 10-min application time, the 10% AHA O/W emulsion reduces the pH(ss) (for at least 3 h) and pH(sc) in deep layers of the SC.[Abstract]
    5. RCT
  5. Ditre CM1, Griffin TD, Murphy GF, Sueki H, Telegan B, Johnson WC, Yu RJ, Van Scott EJ. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1996 Feb;34(2 Pt 1):187-95. Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study
    Treatment with AHAs produced significant reversal of epidermal and dermal markers of photoaging.[Abstract]
    6. REVIEW
  6. Green BA1, Yu RJ, Van Scott EJ. Clin Dermatol. 2009 Sep-Oct;27(5):495-501. doi: 10.1016/j.clindermatol.2009.06.023. Clinical and cosmeceutical uses of hydroxyacids
    The most commonly used hydroxyacid is glycolic acid, an alpha-hydroxyacid that has been used extensively in cosmetic antiaging formulations, moisturizers, and peels, and in treatment products to improve hyperpigmentation and acne. The newer polyhydroxy and bionic acids offer the benefits of alpha-hydroxyacids without irritation, making them suitable for use on sensitive skin, rosacea, and after cosmetic procedures.[Abstract]

  7. .[Abstract]

Glycolzuur

    Jetske Ultee

  1. GLYCOLZUUR Dé blog over huidverzorging
    Glycolzuur zorgt voor het verwijderen van dode huidcellen; het ‘exfolieert’ de huid. Hoewel de natuur hier op jonge leeftijd geen hulp bij nodig heeft, wordt het voor de huid na het 30e levensjaar een stuk lastiger die dode cellen kwijt te raken. Glycolzuur is dus een erg goed ingrediënt, maar heeft enkele 'voorwaarden'. Het werkt alleen als er voldoende hoge concentraties zijn gebruikt (> 5%). Glycolzuur heeft onder andere een positieve invloed op pigment, veroudering en een droge huid en valt onder de groep 'fruitzuren' (ook wel Alpha Hydroxy Acids of AHA's genoemd).[Article]
  2. From Wikipedia Glycolzuur
    Glycolzuur of hydroxyethaanzuur is het eenvoudigste stabiele hydroxyzuur (organisch zuur met één of meerdere alcoholfuncties) met als brutoformule C2H4O3. In zuivere vorm komt het voor als een kristallijne vaste stof, die gemakkelijk oplost in water en andere polaire oplosmiddelen. Glycolzuur wordt verkregen uit suikerriet, maar komt ook voor in suikerbieten en in vruchten zoals ananas, meloen en onrijpe druiven. Glycolzuur wordt in de cosmetica gebruikt: bij chemische peeling met glycolzuur worden rimpeltjes en andere onvolkomenheden weggewerkt doordat de bovenste huidlaagjes als het ware worden weggebrand. Glycolzuur is hiervoor beter geschikt dan langere hydroxyzuren zoals melkzuur of appelzuur omdat het een kleinere molecule is die beter in de huid dring. [Article]

    3. Photodamage repeair

  3. Bertin C1, Zunino H, Lanctin M, Stamatas GN, Camel E, Robert C, Issachar N. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2008 Jun;30(3):175-82. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00441.x. Combined retinol-lactose-glycolic acid effects on photoaged skin: a double-blind placebo-controlled study
    In conclusion, our results demonstrate that topical application of a combination of retinol, lactose and glycolic acid has significantly improved the appearance of photodamaged skin.[Abstract]
  4. Thibault PK1, Wlodarczyk J, Wenck A. Dermatol Surg. 1998 May;24(5):573-7; discussion 577-8. A double-blind randomized clinical trial on the effectiveness of a daily glycolic acid 5% formulation in the treatment of photoaging
    Unneutralized 5% glycolic acid topical cream when used on a regular daily basis can improve some photoaging effects.[Abstract]
  5. Stiller MJ1, Bartolone J, Stern R, Smith S, Kollias N, Gillies R, Drake LA. Arch Dermatol. 1996 Jun;132(6):631-6. Topical 8% glycolic acid and 8% L-lactic acid creams for the treatment of photodamaged skin. A double-blind vehicle-controlled clinical trial
    Topical 8% glycolic acid and 8% L-lactic acid creams are modestly useful in ameliorating some of the signs of chronic cutaneous photodamage. These agents are well tolerated and available without prescription.[Abstract]

    6. Acne repeair

  6. Kaminaka C1, Uede M, Matsunaka H, Furukawa F, Yamomoto Y. Dermatol Surg. 2014 Mar;40(3):314-22. doi: 10.1111/dsu.12417. Clinical evaluation of glycolic acid chemical peeling in patients with acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face comparative study
    Forty percent GA peels significantly improved moderate acne in this study. It is effective and safe in Asians.[Abstract]

    7. Verhoogd gevoeligheid voor zonlicht

  7. Kaidbey K1, Sutherland B, Bennett P, Wamer WG, Barton C, Dennis D, Kornhauser A. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2003 Feb;19(1):21-7. Topical glycolic acid enhances photodamage by ultraviolet light
    Short-term application of 10% glycolic acid sensitizes the skin to the damaging effects of UV light. This photosensitivity is reversed within a week of terminating treatments.[Abstract]
  8. Alam M1, Omura NE, Dover JS, Arndt KA. Dermatol Surg. 2002 Jun;28(6):475-9. Glycolic acid peels compared to microdermabrasion: a right-left controlled trial of efficacy and patient satisfaction
    In this study, patients appeared to prefer low-strength glycolic acid peels to low-intensity microdermabrasion for facial rejuvenation. Differences in patient satisfaction were subtle and may be technique dependent.[Abstract]
  9. Pi rard GE1, Kligman AM, Stoudemayer T, Lévêque JL. Dermatology. 1999;199(1):50-3. Comparative effects of retinoic acid, glycolic acid and a lipophilic derivative of salicylic acid on photodamaged epidermis
    In the presently tested concentrations and formulations, RA had a beneficial impact upon the aging epidermis. LSA mimicked RA but with somewhat lesser efficacy. By contrast, GA appeared almost inactive.[Abstract]
  10. Appa Y. Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol. 1999 May-Jun;12(3):111-9. Retinoid therapy: compatible skin care
    The results of a double-blind clinical study demonstrate that daytime usage of one of two 8% glycolic acid lotions in addition to nightly applications of Renova was well tolerated as part of a comprehensive skin care and sun protection program.[Abstract]
    11. OTHER
  11. Perricone NV1, DiNardo JC. Dermatol Surg. 1996 May;22(5):435-7. Photoprotective and antiinflammatory effects of topical glycolic acid
    The studies demonstrated that topical glycolic acid provides a photoprotective effect to pretreated skin yielding an SPF of approximately 2.4. In addition, when glycolic acid is applied to irradiated skin, it accelerates resolution of erythema. The data obtained from both studies support the hypothesis that glycolic acids acts as an antioxidant.[Abstract]

  12. .[Abstract]

Salicylzuur

    Jetske Ultee

  1. SALICYLZUUR Dé blog over huidverzorging
    Salicylzuur wordt als exfoliant gebruikt voor de huid. Exfoliëren is een mooi woord voor het verwijderen van de dode huidcellen die zich voortdurend op je gezicht ophopen. Het resultaat: je huid is frisser, stralender en egaler. Salicylzuur heeft dezelfde chemische opbouw als de bekende pijnstiller aspirine en hierdoor beschikt het ook over een ontstekingsremmende functie. Dit betekent wel dat als je allergisch bent voor aspirine, je voorzichtig moet zijn met salicylzuur.[Article]
  2. From Wikipedia Salicylzuur
    Salicylzuur is een aromatisch carbonzuur en heeft als brutoformule C7H6O3. De zuivere stof komt voor als kleurloze en reukloze kristallen, die slecht oplosbaar zijn in water. Salicylzuur wordt in hoge concentraties (tot 50%) gebruikt bij de behandeling van wratten: salicylzuur verweekt met name de hoornlaag. In lage concentraties van enkele procenten wordt het toegevoegd aan huidcrèmes om de penetratie van een geneesmiddel te bevorderen. Zo kan de geneeskrachtige stof gemakkelijker (sneller) door de huid heen dringen[Article]
  3. Oresajo C1, Yatskayer M, Hansenne I. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2008 Dec;7(4):259-62. doi: 10.1111/j.1473-2165.2008.00403.x. Clinical tolerance and efficacy of capryloyl salicylic acid peel compared to a glycolic acid peel in subjects with fine lines/wrinkles and hyperpigmented skin
    Five percent to 10% of LHA peel is generally safe and as effective as 20-50% GA peel in reducing facial hyperpigmentation and fine lines/wrinkles.[Abstract]
  4. Dahl A1, Yatskayer M, Raab S, Oresajo C. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013 Jan;12(1):52-8. Tolerance and efficacy of a product containing ellagic and salicylic acids in reducing hyperpigmentation and dark spots in comparison with 4% hydroquinone
    This study suggests that this new product provided comparable skin depigmentation benefit to the benchmark product. In addition, the product appears to have better esthetics (texture, pleasantness to use, skin feel) than the 4% HQ product.[Abstract]
  5. Babayeva L1, Akarsu S, Fetil E, Güne? AT. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2011 Mar;25(3):328-33. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-3083.2010.03793.x. Comparison of tretinoin 0.05% cream and 3% alcohol-based salicylic acid preparation in the treatment of acne vulgaris
    Combination of SA+CDP and all-TRA+CDP was effective in decreasing lesion counts and well tolerated with minimal local cutaneous reactions in patients with mild to moderate AV.[Abstract]
  6. Piérard GE1, Nikkels-Tassoudji N, Arrese JE, Piérard-Franchimont C, Lévêque JL. Dermatology. 1997;194(4):398-401. Dermo-epidermal stimulation elicited by a beta-lipohydroxyacid: a comparison with salicylic acid and all-trans-retinoic acid
    Both beta-lipohydroxyacid and tretinoin induced enhanced epidermal proliferation and thickness with activation of factor XIIIa+dendrocytes. The effects were more pronounced at the tretinoin-treated site. We speculate that TNF-alpha might mediate some of the dermal effects. The beta-lipohydroxyacid mimics some of the stimulatory effects of tretinoin on the epidermis and dermis. This new compound should be listed among topical products boosting the skin tissues affected by ageing.[Abstract]
  7. Abdel-Daim M1, Funasaka Y, Kamo T, Ooe M, Matsunaka H, Yanagita E, Itoh T, Nishigori C. J Dermatol. 2010 Oct;37(10):864-72. doi: 10.1111/j.1346-8138.2010.00859.x. Effect of chemical peeling on photocarcinogenesis
    hese results indicate that chemical peeling with glycolic acid, salicylic acid and trichloroacetic acid could serve tumor prevention by removing photo-damaged cells.[Abstract]
  8. Gladstone HB1, Nguyen SL, Williams R, Ottomeyer T, Wortzman M, Jeffers M, Moy RL. Dermatol Surg. 2000 Apr;26(4):333-7. fficacy of hydroquinone cream (USP 4%) used alone or in combination with salicylic acid peels in improving photodamage on the neck and upper chest
    Hydroquinone 4% cream with 2% glycolic acid is safe and effective in improving photodamage on the neck and upper chest when used alone or in combination with salicylic acid peels.[Abstract]
  9. Fabbrocini G1, De Padova MP, Tosti A. Facial Plast Surg. 2009 Dec;25(5):329-36. doi: 10.1055/s-0029-1243082. Chemical peels: what's new and what isn't new but still works well
    Various chemicals have been used as peeling agents, of which the most used are the alpha-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acid, or beta-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid. The choice of the compound is linked to the different indications and to the depth of the desired peeling. Phenol is still the best agent for deep peeling but requires specific indications, prescription, and post-peeling care.[Abstract]

Vitamine-C

    Jetske Ultee

  1. VITAMINE C Dé blog over huidverzorging
    Vitamine C is een van de best bestudeerde cosmetische ingrediënten. Er is voldoende goed opgezet en onafhankelijk onderzoek dat aantoont dat vitamine C echt werkt.[Article]

    2. Collageen

  2. Nusgens BV1, Humbert P, Rougier A, Colige AC, Haftek M, Lambert CA, Richard A, Creidi P, Lapière CM. J Invest Dermatol. 2001 Jun;116(6):853-9. Topically applied vitamin C enhances the mRNA level of collagens I and III, their processing enzymes and tissue inhibitor of matrix metalloproteinase 1 in the human dermis
    The stimulating activity of topical vitamin C was most conspicuous in the women with the lowest dietary intake of the vitamin and unrelated to the level of actinic damage. The results indicate that the functional activity of the dermal cells is not maximal in postmenopausal women and can be increased.[Abstract]

    3. Photodamage prevention

  3. Darr D1, Combs S, Dunston S, Manning T, Pinnell S. Br J Dermatol. 1992 Sep;127(3):247-53. Topical vitamin C protects porcine skin from ultraviolet radiation-induced damage
    Further, we provide evidence that the vitamin C levels of the skin can be severely depleted after UV irradiation, which would lower this organ's innate protective mechanism as well as leaving it at risk of impaired healing after photoinduced damage. In addition, vitamin C protects porcine skin from UVA-mediated phototoxic reactions (PUVA) and therefore shows promise as a broad-spectrum photoprotectant.[Abstract]

    4. Photodamage repair

    RCT
  4. Traikovich SS. Arch Otolaryngol Head Neck Surg. 1999 Oct;125(10):1091-8. Use of topical ascorbic acid and its effects on photodamaged skin topography
    A 3-month daily regimen of topical ascorbic acid provided objective and subjective improvement in photodamaged facial skin. Skin replica optical profilometry is an objective method for quantification of the skin surface texture changes.[Article]
    5. RCT
  5. Humbert PG1, Haftek M, Creidi P, Lapière C, Nusgens B, Richard A, Schmitt D, Rougier A, Zahouani H. Exp Dermatol. 2003 Jun;12(3):237-44. Topical ascorbic acid on photoaged skin. Clinical, topographical and ultrastructural evaluation: double-blind study vs. placebo
    Topical application of 5% vitamin C cream was an effective and well-tolerated treatment. It led to a clinically apparent improvement of the photodamaged skin and induced modifications of skin relief and ultrastructure, suggesting a positive influence of topical vitamin C on parameters characteristic for sun-induced skin ageing.[Abstract]
    6. CLINICAL
  6. Fitzpatrick RE1, Rostan EF. Dermatol Surg. 2002 Mar;28(3):231-6. Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage
    This formulation of vitamin C results in clinically visible and statistically significant improvement in wrinkling when used topically for 12 weeks. This clinical improvement correlates with biopsy evidence of new collagen formation.[Abstract]
    7. CLINICAL
  7. Sauermann K1, Jaspers S, Koop U, Wenck H. BMC Dermatol. 2004 Sep 29;4(1):13. Topically applied vitamin C increases the density of dermal papillae in aged human skin
    Vitamin C has the potential to enhance the density of dermal papillae, perhaps through the mechanism of angiogenesis. Topical vitamin C may have therapeutical effects for partial corrections of the regressive structural changes associated with the aging process.[Abstract]
    8. REVIEW
  8. Farris PK. Dermatol Surg. 2005 Jul;31(7 Pt 2):814-7; discussion 818. Topical vitamin C: a useful agent for treating photoaging and other dermatologic conditions
    A significant body of scientific research supports the use of cosmeceuticals containing vitamin C. Cutaneous benefits include promoting collagen synthesis, photoprotection from ultraviolet A and B, lightening hyperpigmentation, and improvement of a variety of inflammatory dermatoses. Because of the diverse biologic effects of this compound, topical vitamin C has become a useful part of the dermatologist's armamentarium.[Abstract]
    9. RCT
  9. Nusgens BV1, Humbert P, Rougier A, Colige AC, Haftek M, Lambert CA, Richard A, Creidi P, Lapière CM. J Invest Dermatol. 2001 Jun;116(6):853-9. Topically applied vitamin C enhances the mRNA level of collagens I and III, their processing enzymes and tissue inhibitor of matrix metalloproteinase 1 in the human dermis
    The stimulating activity of topical vitamin C was most conspicuous in the women with the lowest dietary intake of the vitamin and unrelated to the level of actinic damage. The results indicate that the functional activity of the dermal cells is not maximal in postmenopausal women and can be increased.[Abstract]
    10. RCT
  10. Oresajo C1, Stephens T, Hino PD, Law RM, Yatskayer M, Foltis P, Pillai S, Pinnell SR. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2008 Dec;7(4):290-7. doi: 10.1111/j.1473-2165.2008.00408.x. Protective effects of a topical antioxidant mixture containing vitamin C, ferulic acid, and phloretin against ultraviolet-induced photodamage in human skin
    This study confirms the protective role of a unique mixture of antioxidants containing vitamin C, ferulic acid, and phloretin on human skin from the harmful effects of UV irradiation. Phloretin, in addition to being a potent antioxidant, may stabilize and increase the skin availability of topically applied vitamin C and ferulic acid.[Abstract]

  11. .[Abstract]

Vitamine E

    Jetske Ultee

  1. Jetske Ultee Dé blog over huidverzorging WAT JE ECHT NOG NIET WIST OVER VITAMINE E IN JE HUIDVERZORGINGSPRODUCTEN!
    Vitamine E zorgt ervoor dat je huid minder snel verbrandt, het beperkt de celschade die de zon aanricht en het maakt in combinatie met vitamine C pigmentvlekken lichter. Bovendien versterkt het de barrièrefunctie van de huid; vitamine E zit niet voor niets in een zeer hoge concentratie in het vernix caseosa (huidsmeer) van een pasgeboren baby (abstract). Last but not least zorgt vitamine E ervoor dat andere werkzame ingrediënten in huidverzorgingsproducten dieper in de huid kunnen komen om daar goed hun werk te kunnen doen. Er moet minstens 0,5% vitamine E aan een product toegevoegd zijn en het moet dan dus wel gaan om alpha-tocopherol en niet een ester ervan. Verder moeten er aan het product ook echt andere antioxidanten toegevoegd zijn om de werkzaamheid en stabiliteit van vitamine E te garanderen. [Article]

    2. Barrier function

    RCT
  2. Ekanayake-Mudiyanselage S1, Tavakkol A, Polefka TG, Nabi Z, Elsner P, Thiele JJ. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2005 Jan-Feb;18(1):20-6. Vitamin E delivery to human skin by a rinse-off product: penetration of alpha-tocopherol versus wash-out effects of skin surface lipids
    In conclusion, the use of alpha-tocopherol-enriched rinse-off products may help to maintain the integrity of the skin barrier by providing protection against photooxidative stress at the level of skin surface lipids.[Abstract]
    3. CLINICAL
  3. Gehring W1, Fluhr J, Gloor M. Arzneimittelforschung. 1998 Jul;48(7):772-5. Influence of vitamin E acetate on stratum corneum hydration
    The influence of vitamin E (tocopherol, CAS 10191-41-0) on stratum corneum hydration was tested in O/W and W/O emulsions. Additionally, the O/W emulsion was used in an in vivo/in vitro method to gravimetrically obtain evidence concerning the water-binding capacity of the stratum corneum. In the W/O emulsion, 2.5%, 5%, and 7.5% vitamin E were compared. With both types of emulsions, vitamin E increased the stratum corneum hydration statistically significantly (p = 0.0002). In addition, we could provide evidence of an enhanced water-binding capacity after treatment with vitamin E (p = 0.05). For the hydrating effect of vitamin E. its concentration is of importance. The optimum concentration turned out to be 5%.[Abstract]
    4. RCT
  4. Puch F1, Samson-Villeger S, Guyonnet D, Blachon JL, Rawlings AV, Lassel T. Exp Dermatol. 2008 Aug;17(8):668-74. doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0625.2007.00688.x. Consumption of functional fermented milk containing borage oil, green tea and vitamin E enhances skin barrier function
    The product improved stratum corneum barrier function compared with a control product as early as 6 weeks after the consumption which continued throughout the rest of the study. The reduction in transepidermal water loss relative to control was maintained throughout the trial despite seasonal changes. Moreover, as a result of the enhanced bioavailability, a much greater effect on skin barrier function occurred than reported previously for the individual ingredients. Nevertheless, body mass index significantly influenced various outcome measurements of this study.[Abstract]

    5. Photodamage prevention

    OTHER
  5. Jurkiewicz BA1, Bissett DL, Buettner GR. J Invest Dermatol. 1995 Apr;104(4):484-8. Effect of topically applied tocopherol on ultraviolet radiation-mediated free radical damage in skin
    These results extend our previous observations of ultraviolet radiation-induced free-radical generation in skin and indicate the utility of tocopherol sorbate as an antioxidant in providing significant protection against ultraviolet radiation-induced oxidative damage.[Abstract]
    6. OTHER
  6. McVean M1, Liebler DC Mol Carcinog. 1999 Mar;24(3):169-76. Prevention of DNA photodamage by vitamin E compounds and sunscreens: roles of ultraviolet absorbance and cellular uptake
    This work suggests that incorporation of tocopherol compounds into sunscreen products confers protection against procarcinogenic DNA photodamage and that cellular uptake and distribution of tocopherol compounds is necessary for their optimal photoprotection.[Abstract]
    7. REVIEW
  7. Krol ES1, Kramer-Stickland KA, Liebler DC. Drug Metab Rev. 2000 Aug-Nov;32(3-4):413-20. Photoprotective actions of topically applied vitamin E
    Topical application of vitamin E has been shown to decrease the incidence of ultraviolet (UV)-induced skin cancer in mice. Vitamin E provides protection against UV-induced skin photodamage through a combination of antioxidant and UV absorptive properties.[Abstract]
    8. REVIEW
  8. Anstey AV. Clin Exp Dermatol. 2002 May;27(3):170-6. Systemic photoprotection with alpha-tocopherol (vitamin E) and beta-carotene
    The role for alpha-tocopherol as a photoprotective agent is less clear-cut and it has yet to be established as treatment either for conditions characterized by photosensitivity or as an agent for preventing chronic photodamage or cutaneous malignancy.[Abstract]

  9. .[Abstract]

  10. .[Abstract]

  11. .[Abstract]

Vitamine C en E

    Photodamage prevention

    OTHER
  1. Eberlein-König B1, Ring J. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2005 Jan;4(1):4-9. Relevance of vitamins C and E in cutaneous photoprotection
    Combination of vitamins C and E, partly with other photoprotective compounds, did increase the photoprotective effects dramatically compared to monotherapies. This synergistic interplay of several antioxidants should be taken into consideration in future research on cutaneous photoprotection.[Abstract]
    2. OTHER
  2. Darr D1, Dunston S, Faust H, Pinnell S. Acta Derm Venereol. 1996 Jul;76(4):264-8. Effectiveness of antioxidants (vitamin C and E) with and without sunscreens as topical photoprotectants
    These results confirm the utility of anti-oxidants as photoprotectants but suggest the importance of combining the compounds with known sunscreens to maximize photoprotection.[Abstract]
    3. CLINICAL
  3. Tsai FJ1, Wang YD, Chen CC, Hsieh C, Cheng ZJ, Wu YJ. J Photochem Photobiol B. 2012 Jul 2;112:7-15. doi: 10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2012.03.013. Evaluation of the antioxidative capability of commonly used antioxidants in dermocosmetics by in vivo detection of protein carbonylation in human stratum corneum
    The data indicated that alpha-tocopherol (?-Vit E) and ascorbic acid (Vit C) have excellent antioxidative capability and ?-Vit E-acetate possesses better than the average antioxidative capability. The bioconversion of ?-Vit E-acetate to ?-Vit E may occur in the human SC during a less than 2 weeks time course test. Lipoic acid possessed moderate antioxidative capability. Ascorbyl 6-palmitate had a low antioxidative capability. Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside represented an insignificant antioxidative capability. [Abstract]
    4. CLINICAL
  4. Wu Y1, Zheng X, Xu XG, Li YH, Wang B, Gao XH, Chen HD, Yatskayer M, Oresajo C. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013 Apr;12(4):464-8. Protective effects of a topical antioxidant complex containing vitamins C and E and ferulic acid against ultraviolet irradiation-induced photodamage in Chinese women
    A topical antioxidant complex containing vitamins C and E and ferulic acid has potential photoprotective effects against ssUVR-induced acute photodamage in human skin.[Abstract]
    5. RCT
  5. Eberlein-König B1, Placzek M, Przybilla B. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1998 Jan;38(1):45-8. Protective effect against sunburn of combined systemic ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and d-alpha-tocopherol (vitamin E)
    Combined vitamins C and E reduce the sunburn reaction, which might indicate a consequent reduced risk for later sequelae of UV-induced skin damage.[Abstract]
    6. RCT
  6. Greul AK1, Grundmann JU, Heinrich F, Pfitzner I, Bernhardt J, Ambach A, Biesalski HK, Gollnick H. Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol. 2002 Sep-Oct;15(5):307-15. Photoprotection of UV-irradiated human skin: an antioxidative combination of vitamins E and C, carotenoids, selenium and proanthocyanidins
    From our data, we thus finally draw the conclusion that by the combination of antioxidants, such as in the formulation of Seresis, a selective protection of the skin against irradiation can be achieved. This might be important for future recommendations for immediate suppression of the early phase of UV-induced erythema, that means pharmacological prevention of sunburn reaction as well as subsequent chronic skin damage.[Abstract]
    7. CLINICAL
  7. Murray JC1, Burch JA, Streilein RD, Iannacchione MA, Hall RP, Pinnell SR. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2008 Sep;59(3):418-25. doi: 10.1016/j.jaad.2008.05.004. E A topical antioxidant solution containing vitamins C and E stabilized by ferulic acid provides protection for human skin against damage caused by ultraviolet irradiation
    CEFer provided substantial UV photoprotection for skin. It is particularly effective for reducing thymine dimer mutations known to be associated with skin cancer. Its mechanism of action is different from sunscreens and would be expected to supplement the sun protection provided by sunscreens.[Abstract]

  8. .[Abstract]

Vitamine A

    RCT
  1. Tucker-Samaras S1, Zedayko T, Cole C, Miller D, Wallo W, Leyden JJ. J Drugs Dermatol. 2009 Oct;8(10):932-6. A stabilized 0.1% retinol facial moisturizer improves the appearance of photodamaged skin in an eight-week, double-blind, vehicle-controlled study
    The results showed that, after eight weeks, the retinol moisturizer was significantly more efficacious than the vehicle in improving lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, elasticity, firmness and overall photodamage. Many of these differences were significant at week 4, with a progressive improvement to week 8. This study demonstrates that a formulation containing stabilized retinol is safe and effective to ameliorate the appearance of photoaged skin.[Abstract]
    2. RCT
  2. Gold MH1, Kircik LH, Bucay VW, Kiripolsky MG, Biron JA. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013 May;12(5):533-40. Treatment of facial photodamage using a novel retinol formulation
    The topical formulation of 1% retinol improves photodamaged skin for at least 8 to 12 weeks. Although improvements with the 0.5% retinol were more modest, side effects such as burning, dryness, pruritus, and erythema during the 8-week study period were minimal. These encouraging results justify a longer-term study to determine whether topically applied 0.5% retinol can provide benefits comparable with those seen with topically applied 1% retinol.[Abstract]
    3. RCT
  3. Tucker-Samaras S1, Zedayko T, Cole C, Miller D, Wallo W, Leyden JJ. J Drugs Dermatol. 2009 Oct;8(10):932-6. A stabilized 0.1% retinol facial moisturizer improves the appearance of photodamaged skin in an eight-week, double-blind, vehicle-controlled study
    The results showed that, after eight weeks, the retinol moisturizer was significantly more efficacious than the vehicle in improving lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, elasticity, firmness and overall photodamage. Many of these differences were significant at week 4, with a progressive improvement to week 8. This study demonstrates that a formulation containing stabilized retinol is safe and effective to ameliorate the appearance of photoaged skin.[Abstract]
    4. RCT
  4. Kikuchi K1, Suetake T, Kumasaka N, Tagami H. J Dermatolog Treat. 2009;20(5):276-81. doi: 10.1080/09546630902973987. Improvement of photoaged facial skin in middle-aged Japanese females by topical retinol (vitamin A alcohol): a vehicle-controlled, double-blind study
    Three of the 57 subjects withdrew from the study due to irritation, although this rate was much smaller than that noted in our previous study with topical tretinoin. After 26 weeks, the rates of photoaging improvement were significantly higher on the retinol side: 27 out of 54 (50%) versus 13 (24%) for the fine wrinkling and 15 out of 54 (28%) versus 1 (2%) for deep wrinkling. A similar trial with a 0.04% retinol cream for 13 weeks revealed less prominent improvements in fine wrinkling but minimal irritation. From these data, we think that retinol creams, especially 0.04% cream, are suitable for daily use in the general population because of the low irritancy, even for those with sensitive skin.[Abstract]
    5. RCT
  5. Kafi R1, Kwak HS, Schumacher WE, Cho S, Hanft VN, Hamilton TA, King AL, Neal JD, Varani J, Fisher GJ, Voorhees JJ, Kang S. Arch Dermatol. 2007 May;143(5):606-12 Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol)
    Topical retinol improves fine wrinkles associated with natural aging. Significant induction of glycosaminoglycan, which is known to retain substantial water, and increased collagen production are most likely responsible for wrinkle effacement. With greater skin matrix synthesis, retinol-treated aged skin is more likely to withstand skin injury and ulcer formation along with improved appearance.[Article]
    6. RCT
  6. Ho ET1, Trookman NS, Sperber BR, Rizer RL, Spindler R, Sonti S, Gotz V, Mehta R. J Drugs Dermatol. 2012 Jan;11(1):64-9. A randomized, double-blind, controlled comparative trial of the anti-aging properties of non-prescription tri-retinol 1.1% vs. prescription tretinoin 0.025%
    Both test products significantly improved signs of photodamage, including fine and coarse periocular wrinkles, skin firmness, skin tone, mottled pigmentation, tactile roughness, overall photodamage and global photodamage improvement. There were no significant differences in efficacy between the two products for these assessments. The adverse effects (which were graded as mild or less) were those typically seen with topical retinoids. Subjects reported >93 percent overall satisfaction with both products at weeks 8 and 12.[Abstract]

  7. .[Abstract]

Niacinamide

    Jetske Ultee

  1. Jetske Ultee Dé blog over huidverzorging NIACINAMIDE
    Niacinamide zorgt voor de aanmaak van zogenaamde ceramiden en vrije verzuren; deze stoffen versterken de barrierefunctie van de huid. Hierdoor verliest de huid minder vocht en is het beter bestand tegen invloeden van buitenaf. Doordat Niacinamide licht exfolieert vermindert de kans op het krijgen van schilfertjes. Bij regelmatig gebruik wordt de huid gladder en stralender en zullen fijne droogte lijntjes minder opvallen.[Article]
  2. From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Stratum corneum
    The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the epidermis, consisting of dead cells. The purpose of the stratum corneum is to form a barrier to protect underlying tissue from infection, dehydration, chemicals and mechanical stress. [Article]

    3. Barrier function

    RCT
  3. Mohammed D1, Crowther JM, Matts PJ, Hadgraft J, Lane ME. Int J Pharm. 2013 Jan 30;441(1-2):192-201. doi: 10.1016/j.ijpharm.2012.11.043. Epub 2012 Dec 5. Influence of niacinamide containing formulations on the molecular and biophysical properties of the stratum corneum
    Niacinamide-containing moisturisers are known be efficacious in alleviating dry skin conditions and improving stratum corneum (SC) barrier function. Overall (i) corneocyte maturity and surface area decreased with increasing number of tape strips, (ii) activity of both the desquamatory and inflammatory enzymes was highest in the outer layers of the SC and decreased with depth (iii) TEWL increased as more SC layers were removed. Furthermore, areas treated with formulations containing niacinamide were significantly different to pre-treatment baseline and untreated/vehicle-control treated sites, with larger and more mature corneocytes, decreased inflammatory activity, decreased TEWL and increased SC thickness.[Abstract]
    4. RCT
  4. Christman JC1, Fix DK, Lucus SC, Watson D, Desmier E, Wilkerson RJ, Fixler C J Drugs Dermatol. 2012 Jan;11(1):22-9. Two randomized, controlled, comparative studies of the stratum corneum integrity benefits of two cosmetic niacinamide/glycerin body moisturizers vs. conventional body moisturizers
    These studies establish the benefit of including niacinamide in a body moisturizer to improve the integrity of the stratum corneum and thus reduce cosmetic xerosis over time.[Abstract]
    5. RCT
  5. Draelos ZD1, Ertel K, Berge C. Cutis. 2005 Aug;76(2):135-41. Niacinamide-containing facial moisturizer improves skin barrier and benefits subjects with rosacea
    A growing body of literature suggests that some moisturizers can improve stratum corneum barrier function, as well as ameliorate dry skin. The clinical signs and symptoms of rosacea, which include increased facial skin dryness and sensitivity, suggest a possible role for such moisturizers as an adjuvant in the management of this condition. This randomized, investigator-blind, controlled observational study (N = 50) was designed to assess whether a niacinamide-containing facial moisturizer would improve the stratum corneum barrier and thus provide a clinical benefit to subjects with rosacea.[Abstract]
    6. RCT
  6. Draelos ZD1, Ertel KD, Berge CA. Cutis. 2006 Oct;78(4):275-81. Facilitating facial retinization through barrier improvement
    The results show that improving stratum corneum barrier function before beginning topical tretinoin therapy and continuing use of a barrier-enhancing cosmetic moisturizer during therapy facilitates the early phase of facial retinization and augments the treatment response.[Abstract]

    7. Wrinkle reduction

    RCT
  7. Fu JJ1, Hillebrand GG, Raleigh P, Li J, Marmor MJ, Bertucci V, Grimes PE, Mandy SH, Perez MI, Weinkle SH, Kaczvinsky JR. Br J Dermatol. 2010 Mar;162(3):647-54. doi: 10.1111/j.1365-2133.2009.09436.x. A randomized, controlled comparative study of the wrinkle reduction benefits of a cosmetic niacinamide/peptide/retinyl propionate product regimen vs. a prescription 0.02% tretinoin product regimen
    The cosmetic regimen significantly improved wrinkle appearance after 8 weeks relative to tretinoin, with comparable benefits after 24 weeks. The cosmetic regimen was significantly better tolerated than tretinoin through 8 weeks by all measures.[Article]
    8. RCT
  8. Kawada A1, Konishi N, Oiso N, Kawara S, Date A. J Dermatol. 2008 Oct;35(10):637-42. doi: 10.1111/j.1346-8138.2008.00537.x. Evaluation of anti-wrinkle effects of a novel cosmetic containing niacinamide
    These results indicated that the tested lotion was well tolerated and may be an optional preparation for the treatment of wrinkles in the eye areas.[Abstract]
    9. RCT
  9. Bissett DL1, Oblong JE, Berge CA. Dermatol Surg. 2005 Jul;31(7 Pt 2):860-5; discussion 865. Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance
    In addition to previously observed benefits for topical niacinamide, additional effects were identified (improved appearance of skin wrinkles and yellowing and improved elasticity).[Abstract]

    10. Hyperpigmentation reduction

    RCT
  10. Kimball AB1, Kaczvinsky JR, Li J, Robinson LR, Matts PJ, Berge CA, Miyamoto K, Bissett DL. Br J Dermatol. 2010 Feb 1;162(2):435-41. doi: 10.1111/j.1365-2133.2009.09477.x. Reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation after use of moisturizers with a combination of topical niacinamide and N-acetyl glucosamine: results of a randomized, double-blind, vehicle-controlled trial
    A formulation containing the combination of niacinamide + NAG reduced the appearance of irregular pigmentation including hypermelaninization, providing an effect beyond that achieved with SPF 15 sunscreen.[Abstract]
  11. Bissett DL1, Robinson LR, Raleigh PS, Miyamoto K, Hakozaki T, Li J, Kelm GR. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2009 Dec;8(4):260-6. doi: 10.1111/j.1473-2165.2009.00470.x. Reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation by topical N-undecyl-10-enoyl-L-phenylalanine and its combination with niacinamide
    The combination of 5% niacinamide and 1%N-undecylenoyl phenylalanine is an effective anti-aging technology for use on facial skin.[Abstract]
    12. RCT
  12. Hakozaki T1, Minwalla L, Zhuang J, Chhoa M, Matsubara A, Miyamoto K, Greatens A, Hillebrand GG, Bissett DL, Boissy RE. Br J Dermatol. 2002 Jul;147(1):20-31. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer
    The data suggest niacinamide is an effective skin lightening compound that works by inhibiting melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes.[Abstract]
  13. Greatens A1, Hakozaki T, Koshoffer A, Epstein H, Schwemberger S, Babcock G, Bissett D, Takiwaki H, Arase S, Wickett RR, Boissy RE. Exp Dermatol. 2005 Jul;14(7):498-508. Effective inhibition of melanosome transfer to keratinocytes by lectins and niacinamide is reversible
    These results suggest that lectins and niacinamide at concentrations that do not affect cell viability are reversible inhibitors of melanosome transfer.[Abstract]

  14. .[Abstract]

Antioxidanten

    Sunscreens

  1. Haywood R1, Wardman P, Sanders R, Linge C. J Invest Dermatol. 2003 Oct;121(4):862-8. Sunscreens inadequately protect against ultraviolet-A-induced free radicals in skin: implications for skin aging and melanoma?
    Sunscreens are employed to mitigate the adverse effects of sunlight on skin but are primarily designed to prevent ultraviolet-B-associated burning and damage. The increasingly recognized role of ultraviolet A in aging, and possibly melanoma, highlights the need to include ultraviolet A screens; however, validation remains difficult. We have used a novel method to establish the efficacy of sunscreens, by measuring ultraviolet-A-induced free-radical production (thought to contribute towards ultraviolet-A-related aging and malignant change). Electron spin resonance spectroscopy was used to detect free radicals directly in human Caucasian skin during irradiation with levels of ultraviolet comparable to solar intensities. Using this system the protection afforded by three high factor sunscreens (sun protection factor 20+) that claim ultraviolet A protection was examined. Each sunscreen behaved similarly: at recommended application levels (> or = 2 mg per cm2) the ultraviolet-induced free radicals were reduced by only about 55%, and by about 45% at 0.5-1.5 mg per cm (0.5 mg per cm2 reported for common usage). A "free-radical protection factor" calculated on the basis of these results was only 2 at the recommended application level, which contrasts strongly with the erythema-based sun protection factors (mainly indicative of ultraviolet B protection) quoted by the manufacturers (20+). The disparity between these protection factors suggests that prolonged sunbathing (encouraged by use of these creams) would disproportionately increase exposure to ultraviolet A and consequently the risk of ultraviolet-A-related skin damage.[Article]
    2. RCT
  2. Schempp CM1, Meinke MC, Lademann J, Ferrari Y, Brecht T, Gehring W. Contact Dermatitis. 2012 Oct;67(4):234-7. doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0536.2012.02114.x. Topical antioxidants protect the skin from chemical-induced irritation in the repetitive washing test: a placebo-controlled, double-blind study
    The superiority of the cream with antioxidants to the cream base suggests that reactive oxygen species, at least in part, play a role in the development of irritant contact dermatitis.[Abstract]

    3. Photodamage reduction

    OTHER
  3. Burke KE. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2004 Jul;3(3):149-55. Photodamage of the skin: protection and reversal with topical antioxidants
    Controversy exists as to whether topical antioxidants can be effective in protecting against and reversing photodamage to the skin. Topical vitamins C and E, as well as topical selenium, protect skin against sunburn, suntan and skin cancer and also reverse the mottled pigmentation and wrinkles of photoageing. However, only certain forms of these labile antioxidants are stable and active after percutaneous absorption. For effective topical application, vitamin C must be non-esterified, acidic and optimally at 20% concentration; vitamin E must be the non-esterified isomer d-alpha-tocopherol at 2-5% concentration. Selenium is only percutaneously absorbed and active when applied topically as l-selenomethionine, optimally at 0.02-0.05%. First, the skin attains far higher levels of each antioxidant than can be achieved by only taking these vitamins orally. The level of vitamin C attained in the skin by topical application is 20-40 times that achievable with oral vitamin C. With topical application, the concentration of vitamin E in the skin increases by a factor of 10.6 and selenium by a factor of 1.7. Second, topical application arms the skin with a reservoir of antioxidants that cannot be washed or rubbed off, a protection which stays in the skin for several days after application. [Abstract]
    4. REVIEW
  4. Burke KE1, Wei H. Toxicol Ind Health. 2009 May-Jun;25(4-5):219-24. doi: 10.1177/0748233709106067. Synergistic damage by UVA radiation and pollutants
    However, until recently, most sunscreens did not adequately protect against ultraviolet A (UVA) radiation. Although UVA is indeed less erythrogenic and less carcinogenic than UVB, UVA directly causes photoaging and enhances UVB-induced skin cancer. Furthermore, recent research demonstrates that UVA combined with environmental pollutants (including cigarette smoke) significantly increases the risk of skin cancer.[Abstract]
    5. REVIEW
  5. Podda M1, Grundmann-Kollmann M. Clin Exp Dermatol. 2001 Oct;26(7):578-82. Low molecular weight antioxidants and their role in skin ageing
    There is increasing evidence that reactive oxygen species play a pivotal role in the process of ageing. The skin, as the outermost barrier of the body, is exposed to various exogenous sources of oxidative stress, in particular UV-irradiation. These are believed to be responsible for the extrinsic type of skin ageing, termed photo-ageing. It therefore seems reasonable to try to increase levels of protective low molecular weight antioxidants through a diet rich in fruits and vegetables or by direct topical application. Indeed, various in vitro and animal studies have proved that low molecular weight antioxidants, especially vitamins C and E, ascorbate and tocopherol, as well as lipoic acid, exert protective effects against oxidative stress. However, controlled long-term studies on the efficacy of low molecular weight antioxidants in the prevention or treatment of skin ageing in humans are still lacking.[Abstract]
    6. CLINICAL
  6. Heinrich U1, Tronnier H, Stahl W, Béjot M, Maurette JMSkin Pharmacol Physiol. 2006;19(4):224-31 Antioxidant supplements improve parameters related to skin structure in humans
    Upon supplementation serum levels of selected carotenoids increased in both verum groups. Skin density and thickness were determined by ultrasound measurements. A significant increase for both parameters was determined in the verum groups. Roughness, scaling, smoothness and wrinkling of the skin were determined by Surface Evaluation of Living Skin (Visioscan). Roughness and scaling were improved by the supplementation with antioxidant micronutrients.[Abstract]

  7. .[Abstract]

ECGC

    Jetske Ultee

  1. GROENE THEE Dé blog over huidverzorging
    Groene thee extract (2-3%) werkt preventief op het ontstaan van rimpels. De reden hierachter is dat groene thee huidbeschadiging na blootstelling aan zonlicht kan voorkomen.[Article]
  2. Stephan Hsu Green Tea and Skin
    .[Article]

    3. Oral Green tea photodamage prevention

    REVIEW
  3. OyetakinWhite P1, Tribout H, Baron E. Oxid Med Cell Longev. 2012;2012:560682. doi: 10.1155/2012/560682. Protective mechanisms of green tea polyphenols in skin
    Skin is frequently exposed to a variety of environmental, chemical, and genotoxic agents that contribute to disease and carcinogenesis. Ultraviolet light (UVR) is the main external stress that leads to immunosuppression, oxidative stress, premature aging, and tumor formation. Scientists and health professionals emphasize the importance of prevention strategies to circumvent such unfavorable outcomes. Plant polyphenols are a promising approach to disease prevention and treatment. Green tea is an abundant source of plant polyphenols that exhibit significant antioxidant, chemopreventive, and immunomodulatory effects in protecting the skin.[Abstract]
    4. RCT
  4. Heinrich U1, Moore CE, De Spirt S, Tronnier H, Stahl W. J Nutr. 2011 Jun;141(6):1202-8. doi: 10.3945/jn.110.136465. Green tea polyphenols provide photoprotection, increase microcirculation, and modulate skin properties of women
    In summary, green tea polyphenols delivered in a beverage were shown to protect skin against harmful UV radiation and helped to improve overall skin quality of women.[Abstract]
    5. CLINICAL
  5. Rhodes LE1, Darby G, Massey KA, Clarke KA, Dew TP, Farrar MD, Bennett S, Watson RE, Williamson G, Nicolaou A Br J Nutr. 2013 Sep 14;110(5):891-900. doi: 10.1017/S0007114512006071. Oral green tea catechin metabolites are incorporated into human skin and protect against UV radiation-induced cutaneous inflammation in association with reduced production of pro-inflammatory eicosanoid 12-hydroxyeicosatetraenoic acid
    Thus, GTC intake results in the incorporation of catechin metabolites into human skin associated with abrogated UVR-induced 12-HETE; this may contribute to protection against sunburn inflammation and potentially longer-term UVR-mediated damage.[Abstract]
    6. CLINICAL
  6. Malhomme de la Roche H1, Seagrove S, Mehta A, Divekar P, Campbell S, Curnow A. J Photochem Photobiol B. 2010 Nov 3;101(2):169-73. doi: 10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2010.04.006. Using natural dietary sources of antioxidants to protect against ultraviolet and visible radiation-induced DNA damage: an investigation of human green tea ingestion
    The findings support those of our previous pilot study and indicate that drinking green tea did significantly reduce the genotoxic effects observed in peripheral blood cells 60 min following ingestion when artificially exposed to 12 min of UVA/VIS irradiation in the laboratory. It is postulated that this protection is afforded by the polyphenol compounds (known to be contained within green tea) via scavenging or quenching of the damaging ROS induced by this form of light exposure. Further investigation should consider whether this dietary-induced protection could be extended to cells of the skin.[Abstract]
    7. RCT
  7. Janjua R1, Munoz C, Gorell E, Rehmus W, Egbert B, Kern D, Chang AL. Dermatol Surg. 2009 Jul;35(7):1057-65. doi: 10.1111/j.1524-4725.2009.01183.x. A two-year, double-blind, randomized placebo-controlled trial of oral green tea polyphenols on the long-term clinical and histologic appearance of photoaging skin
    Long-term supplementation with oral GTPs was not superior to placebo in improving clinical or histologic photoaging parameters after 24 months of use.[Abstract]

    8. Topical Green tea photodamage prevention

    RCT
  8. Domingo DS1, Camouse MM, Hsia AH, Matsui M, Maes D, Ward NL, Cooper KD, Baron ED Int J Clin Exp Pathol. 2010 Aug 5;3(7):705-9. Anti-angiogenic effects of epigallocatechin-3-gallate in human skin
    Epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) is the main polyphenol component of green tea. This compound exhibits antioxidant, immunomodulatory, photoprotective, anti-angiogenic, and anti-inflammatory properties.[Abstract]
    9. RCT
  9. Camouse MM1, Domingo DS, Swain FR, Conrad EP, Matsui MS, Maes D, Declercq L, Cooper KD, Stevens SR, Baron ED.Exp Dermatol. 2009 Jun;18(6):522-6. doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0625.2008.00818.x. Topical application of green and white tea extracts provides protection from solar-simulated ultraviolet light in human skin
    Topical application of green and white tea offered protection against detrimental effects of UV on cutaneous immunity. Hence, both green tea and white tea are potential photoprotective agents that may be used in conjunction with established methods of sun protection.[Abstract]
    10. CLINICAL
  10. Li YH1, Wu Y, Wei HC, Xu YY, Jia LL, Chen J, Yang XS, Dong GH, Gao XH, Chen HD. Skin Res Technol. 2009 Aug;15(3):338-45. doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0846.2009.00370.x. Protective effects of green tea extracts on photoaging and photommunosuppression
    GTEs-containing sunscreens have potential photoprotective effects on UVR-induced photoaging and photoimmunosuppression.[Abstract]

    11. Topical Green tea photodamage repair

    RCT
  11. Chiu AE1, Chan JL, Kern DG, Kohler S, Rehmus WE, Kimball AB. Dermatol Surg. 2005 Jul;31(7 Pt 2):855-60; discussion 860. Double-blinded, placebo-controlled trial of green tea extracts in the clinical and histologic appearance of photoaging skin
    Participants treated with a combination regimen of topical and oral green tea showed histologic improvement in elastic tissue content. Green tea polyphenols have been postulated to protect human skin from the cutaneous signs of photoaging, but clinically significant changes could not be detected. Longer supplementation may be required for clinically observable improvements.[Abstract]
    12. CLINICAL
  12. Ferzil G1, Patel M, Phrsai N, Brody N. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013 Jul 1;12(7):770-4. Reduction of facial redness with resveratrol added to topical product containing green tea polyphenols and caffeine
    The skin product combination of resveratrol, green tea polyphenols, and caffeine safely reduces facial redness in most patients by 6 weeks of continuous treatment and may provide further improvement with additional treatment.[Abstract]
    13. CLINICAL
  13. Mahmood T1, Akhtar N. Rejuvenation Res. 2013 Apr;16(2):91-7. doi: 10.1089/rej.2012.1380. Combined topical application of lotus and green tea improves facial skin surface parameters
    We conclude that diverse anti-oxidant constituents in both plants have a potential influence on skin surface parameters, thus indicating these plants as the future of new anti-aging products.[Abstract]

    14. Green tea anti-cancer

    REVIEW
  14. Donejko M1, Niczyporuk M, Galicka E, Przylipiak A. Postepy Hig Med Dosw (Online). 2013 Jan 16;67:26-34. Anti-cancer properties epigallocatechin-gallate contained in green tea
    Numerous in vivo and in vitro studies point to the possibility of using green tea's catechins in chemoprevention of cancer. Recent studies show the inhibitory effects of epigallocatechin gallate on the growth of existing tumors including breast cancer, skin cancer and gastrointestinal tract cancers.[Abstract]
    15. REVIEW
  15. Katiyar SK. Curr Drug Targets Immune Endocr Metabol Disord. 2003 Sep;3(3):234-42. Skin photoprotection by green tea: antioxidant and immunomodulatory effects
    We and others have shown that topical treatment or oral consumption of green tea polyphenols (GTP) inhibit chemical carcinogen- or UV radiation-induced skin carcinogenesis in different laboratory animal models. Topical treatment of GTP and EGCG or oral consumption of GTP resulted in prevention of UVB-induced inflammatory responses, immunosuppression and oxidative stress, which are the biomarkers of several skin disease states.[Abstract]

    16. Green tea safety

    RCT
  16. Chow HH1, Cai Y, Hakim IA, Crowell JA, Shahi F, Brooks CA, Dorr RT, Hara Y, Alberts DS. Clin Cancer Res. 2003 Aug 15;9(9):3312-9. Pharmacokinetics and safety of green tea polyphenols after multiple-dose administration of epigallocatechin gallate and polyphenon E in healthy individuals
    We conclude that it is safe for healthy individuals to take green tea polyphenol products in amounts equivalent to the EGCG content in 8-16 cups of green tea once a day or in divided doses twice a day for 4 weeks. There is a >60% increase in the systemic availability of free EGCG after chronic green tea polyphenol administration at a high daily bolus dose (800 mg EGCG or Polyphenon E once daily).[Abstract]

  17. .[Abstract]

Panthenol

  1. From Wikipedia Panthenol
    Panthenol is de alcoholvorm van pantotheenzuur (vitamine B5). Panthenol heeft twee enantiomeren (D- en L-panthenol), maar enkel D-panthenol of dexpanthenol is biologisch actief. In cellen wordt het omgezet tot pantotheenzuur; om deze reden wordt panthenol vaak als "provitamine B5" aangeduid. [Article]
    2. CLINICAL
  2. Camargo FB Jr1, Gaspar LR, Maia Campos PM. J Cosmet Sci. 2011 Jul-Aug;62(4):361-70. Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations
    Panthenol-containing formulations (1.0% and 5.0%) produced significant decreases in TEWL after 30-day applications. In skin washed with SLES, significant reduction of TEWL was evident two hours after application of formulations loaded with panthenol when compared with control and vehicle. It is concluded that skin integrity is maintained by the improved protective effect of 1.0% panthenol added to the formulation..[Abstract]
    3. RCT
  3. Jerajani HR1, Mizoguchi H, Li J, Whittenbarger DJ, Marmor MJ. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol. 2010 Jan-Feb;76(1):20-6. doi: 10.4103/0378-6323.58674. The effects of a daily facial lotion containing vitamins B3 and E and provitamin B5 on the facial skin of Indian women: a randomized, double-blind trial
    Daily use of a facial lotion containing niacinamide, panthenol, and tocopheryl acetate improved skin tone and texture and was well tolerated in Indian women with facial signs of aging.[Article]
    4. RCT
  4. Draelos ZD1, Ertel KD, Berge CA Cutis. 2006 Oct;78(4):275-81. Facilitating facial retinization through barrier improvement
    The utility of topical tretinoin as a treatment for improving the appearance of photodamaged skin is limited by irritation that occurs during the early phases of facial retinization. The observed side effects are consistent with stratum corneum barrier compromise. One moisturizer contained a mixture of vitamins (niacinamide, panthenol, and tocopheryl acetate) to enhance stratum corneum barrier function, and the other moisturizer contained similar moisturizing ingredients but no vitamins. The results show that improving stratum corneum barrier function before beginning topical tretinoin therapy and continuing use of a barrier-enhancing cosmetic moisturizer during therapy facilitates the early phase of facial retinization and augments the treatment response.[Abstract]
    5. RCT
  5. Heise R1, Skazik C, Marquardt Y, Czaja K, Sebastian K, Kurschat P, Gan L, Denecke B, Ekanayake-Bohlig S, Wilhelm KP, Merk HF, Baron JM. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2012;25(5):241-8. doi: 10.1159/000341144. Dexpanthenol modulates gene expression in skin wound healing in vivo
    Topical application of dexpanthenol is widely used in clinical practice for the improvement of wound healing. Previous in vitro experiments identified a stimulatory effect of pantothenate on migration, proliferation and gene regulation in cultured human dermal fibroblasts.[Abstract]
    6. CLINICAL
  6. Biro K1, Thaçi D, Ochsendorf FR, Kaufmann R, Boehncke WH. Contact Dermatitis. 2003 Aug;49(2):80-4. Efficacy of dexpanthenol in skin protection against irritation: a double-blind, placebo-controlled study
    In conclusion, dexpanthenol exhibits protective effects against skin irritation. The initiation of a study to evaluate the efficacy of dexpanthenol in preventing irritant occupational contact dermatitis under real workplace conditions is validated.[Abstract]
    7. RCT
  7. Proksch E1, Nissen HP. J Dermatolog Treat. 2002 Dec;13(4):173-8. Dexpanthenol enhances skin barrier repair and reduces inflammation after sodium lauryl sulphate-induced irritation
    Treatment with a dexpanthenol-containing cream showed significantly enhanced skin barrier repair and stratum corneum hydration, while reducing skin roughness and inflammation.[Abstract]
    8. CLINICAL
  8. Gehring W1, Gloor M. Arzneimittelforschung. 2000 Jul;50(7):659-63. Effect of topically applied dexpanthenol on epidermal barrier function and stratum corneum hydration. Results of a human in vivo study
    Seven days' treatment with dexpanthenol improved stratum corneum hydration and reduced transepidermal water loss. Active treatment was statistically different from the vehicle control on both measures. Our results suggest that topical dexpanthenol formulated in either lipophilic vehicle stabilizes the skin barrier function.[Abstract]
    9. CLINICAL
  9. Udompataikul M1, Limpa-o-vart D. J Drugs Dermatol. 2012 Mar;11(3):366-74. Comparative trial of 5% dexpanthenol in water-in-oil formulation with 1% hydrocortisone ointment in the treatment of childhood atopic dermatitis: a pilot study
    The effectiveness of 5% DT ointment is equal to that of 1% HC ointment. DT ointment may be used as alternative treatment in mild to moderate childhood AD therapy.[Abstract]
    10. REVIEW
  10. Ebner F1, Heller A, Rippke F, Tausch I. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2002;3(6):427-33. Topical use of dexpanthenol in skin disorders
    Adjuvant skin care with dexpanthenol considerably improved the symptoms of skin irritation, such as dryness of the skin, roughness, scaling, pruritus, erythema, erosion/fissures, over 3 to 4 weeks. Usually, the topical administration of dexpanthenol preparations is well tolerated, with minimal risk of skin irritancy or sensitization.[Abstract]

  11. .[Abstract]

Hydroquinone

    Jetske Ultee

  1. HYDROQUINONE (HYDROCHINON) Dé blog over huidverzorging
    Hydroquinone 'depigmenteert' de huid waardoor de aanwezige pigmentvlekken minder zichtbaar worden. Er wordt minder pigment aangemaakt. Dit is mogelijk doordat de omzetting van tyrosine naar melanine wordt afgeremd. [Article]
    2. RCT
  2. Woodhall KE1, Goldman MP, Gold MH, Biron J. J Drugs Dermatol. 2009 Sep;8(9):862-7. Benefits of using a hydroquinone/tretinoin skin care system in patients undergoing intense pulsed light therapy for photorejuvenation: a placebo-controlled study
    A hydroquinone/tretinoin (HQ/tret) skin care system designed for use with non-surgical facial rejuvenation procedures has recently become available. In this observer-masked study, 36 patients with moderate-to-severe wrinkling of the skin around the eyes and lips were randomly assigned to use either the 4% hydroquinone/0.05% tretinoin skin care system or placebo products, each day for 90 days. In addition, all patients received intense pulsed light (IPL) treatment on days 30 and 60. At day 90, > or = 75% overall improvement was reported in 72% and 19% of patients in the HQ/tret + IPL group and the placebo + IPL group, respectively. HQ/tret + IPL was also associated with significantly lower mean hyperpigmentation scores at days 30, 60 and 90 (P < or = 0.05), and significantly lower mean laxity scores at day 90 (P< or =0.05) compared with placebo + IPL. Adjunctive use of the HQ/tret system enhances the improvements in facial skin achieved with IPL treatment.[Abstract]
    3. RCT
  3. Schlessinger J1, Kenkel J, Werschler P. Aesthet Surg J. 2011 Jul;31(5):529-39. doi: 10.1177/1090820X11411579. Further enhancement of facial appearance with a hydroquinone skin care system plus tretinoin in patients previously treated with botulinum toxin Type A
    Adjunctive use of the HQ system plus tretinoin can further enhance the improvements in facial appearance attained with BoNT-A. Applying the HQ system plus tretinoin offers multiple clinical benefits over standard skin care, including significantly greater improvements in fine lines/wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.[Abstract]
    4. REVIEW
  4. McGregor D. Crit Rev Toxicol. 2007;37(10):887-914. Hydroquinone: an evaluation of the human risks from its carcinogenic and mutagenic properties
    The toxicology of hydroquinone has been reviewed on a number of previous occasions. This review targets its potential for carcinogenicity and possible modes of carcinogenic action. The evaluation made by IARC (1999) of its carcinogenic risk to humans was that hydroquinone is not classifiable as to its carcinogenicity to humans (Group 3). This evaluation was based on inadequate evidence in humans and limited evidence in experimental animals. [Abstract]

  5. .[Abstract]

  6. .[Abstract]

  7. .[Abstract]

Peptides

  1. Lupo MP1, Cole AL. Dermatol Ther. 2007 Sep-Oct;20(5):343-9. Cosmeceutical peptides
    Peptide cosmeceuticals are one of the new, popular options to treat aging skin. There are three main categories of cosmeceutical peptides: signal peptides, neurotransmitter-affecting peptides and carrier peptides. Although their benefits currently may not be as rigorously tested as most FDA-regulated drugs, the evidence to support their use is growing. This article attempts to review the various current popular cosmeceutical peptides, the published studies on their theoretical effects, and their practical use in dermatology.[Abstract]
  2. Grosicki M, Latacz G, Szopa A, Cukier A, Kie?-Kononowicz K. Acta Biochim Pol. 2014;61(1):29-32. The study of cellular cytotoxicity of argireline - an anti-aging peptide
    Argireline is well know, innovative anti-aging product used in the cosmetic market. This short chain peptide is used as active ingredient in dermal ointment and creams. Argireline prevents formation of skin lines and wrinkles in a very similar way to the botulinum toxin (Botox), inhibiting neurotransmitter release at the neuromuscular junction. Argireline does not require under skin muscle injections and it is believed to be relatively safe. However, despite the fact that some toxicity data has been provided by the product manufacturer, there is an evident lack of reliable information about cytotoxicity of argireline in the literature. However, the significant cytotoxicity of argireline solution was observed under 18 to 10 000 fold higher concentrations (depending on cells that were examined) in comparison to doxorubicin.[Article]
  3. Kasuyama K1, Tomofuji T, Ekuni D, Azuma T, Irie K, Endo Y, Morita M. J Periodontal Res. 2012 Apr;47(2):159-64. doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0765.2011.01414.x. Effects of topical application of inorganic polyphosphate on tissue remodeling in rat inflamed gingiva
    Topical application of poly(P) may induce connective tissue remodeling, contributing to improvement of inflamed gingiva in rats.[Abstract]

Argireline

  1. Wang Y1, Wang M, Xiao XS, Huo J, Zhang WD. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2013 Aug;15(4):237-41. doi: 10.3109/14764172.2013.769273. The anti-wrinkle efficacy of Argireline
    This study revealed that Argireline could improve the histological structure of skin tissue and rejuvenate the aging skin.[Abstract]
  2. Wang Y1, Wang M, Xiao S, Pan P, Li P, Huo J. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2013 Apr;14(2):147-53. doi: 10.1007/s40257-013-0009-9. The anti-wrinkle efficacy of argireline, a synthetic hexapeptide, in Chinese subjects: a randomized, placebo-controlled study
    This study showed that argireline had a significant anti-wrinkle effect in Chinese subjects.[Abstract]
  3. Ruiz MA1, Clares B, Morales ME, Cazalla S, Gallardo V. J Cosmet Sci. 2007 Mar-Apr;58(2):157-71. Preparation and stability of cosmetic formulations with an anti-aging peptide
    This article reviews the physiological basis and mechanism of action of the active cosmetic ingredient acetyl hexapeptide-8 (Argireline). We prepared two formulations: an emulsion with an external aqueous phase for normal to dry skin, and a gel for oily skin. Laboratory analyses, rheology tests and in vitro release assays were used to evaluate the stability of these formulations for cosmetic treatment.[Abstract]

Probiotica

    RCT
  1. Peguet-Navarro J1, Dezutter-Dambuyant C, Buetler T, Leclaire J, Smola H, Blum S, Bastien P, Breton L, Gueniche A. Eur J Dermatol. 2008 Sep-Oct;18(5):504-11. doi: 10.1684/ejd.2008.0496. Supplementation with oral probiotic bacteria protects human cutaneous immune homeostasis after UV exposure-double blind, randomized, placebo controlled clinical trial
    For the first time, the results provide evidence that ingested probiotic bacteria accelerate the recovery of skin immune homeostasis after UV-induced immunosuppression.[    Abstract]
    2. OTHER
  2. Guéniche A, Philippe D, Bastien P, Blum S, Buyukpamukcu E, Castiel-Higounenc I. Dermatoendocrinol. 2009 Sep;1(5):275-9. Probiotics for photoprotection
    Thus, this clinical data strengthen the assumption that certain probiotics can contribute to modulate skin immune system leading to the preservation of the skin homeostasis. Altogether the data affords the possibility of designing new strategies based on a nutritional approach for the prevention of UV-induced damaging effects.[Article]
    3. OTHER
  3. Guéniche A1, Benyacoub J, Buetler TM, Smola H, Blum S. Eur J Dermatol. 2006 Sep-Oct;16(5):511-7. Supplementation with oral probiotic bacteria maintains cutaneous immune homeostasis after UV exposure
    In conclusion, our data demonstrate that ingested probiotic bacteria can maintain cutaneous immune capacity after UV exposure.[Abstract]

  4. .[Abstract]

Huidverzorging

  1. A lifetime of healthy skin: implications for women
    During her lifetime, a woman faces the possibility of seeking dermatological assistance for a myriad of conditions, including acne, rosacea, striae, photodamage, and skin cancers. It is important for clinicians and patients to be aware of the symptoms of these conditions as well as the most beneficial approaches for prevention, diagnosis, treatment, and management. The life expectancy of women has increased and predictions for the year 2050 estimate the average age at 81 years. This will place women at greater risk for dermatological problems, especially photodamage and skin cancer. In addition, various ethnic groups may manifest these conditions differently. Although acne is most prevalent among teenaged males, most can expect clearing by age 25. Females may continue to experience acne into the adult years, sometimes beyond the age of 40. Although it is not a life-threatening disease, acne may have psychosocial and quality-of-life consequences. Treatments for acne can be topical or systemic, and include retinoids, antibiotics, benzoyl peroxide, azelaic acid, and hormonal therapy. Rosacea is more common in women (especially during menopause) than in men. It is a chronic condition that can cause complications, including telangiectasia, conjunctivitis, and blepharitis. Although there is no cure, rosacea can be managed and controlled with medication. Topical antibiotics, such as metronidazole, and systemic antibiotics, such as tetracycline, clarithromycin, and doxycycline, are used to manage rosacea. Striae, or stretch marks, occur most frequently in pregnant women, adolescents experiencing growth spurts, weight lifters, and the obese. Although not a health threat, they can be psychologically distressing. There are not many treatment options for striae, but topical tretinoin and the pulsed dye laser offer promising results. Intrinsic, or normal, aging of the skin results from the process of chronological aging. Photodamage is skin damage caused by chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light. It is the leading cause of extrinsic aging, or alterations of the skin due to environmental exposure. Estimates indicate that almost half of a person's UV exposure occurs by age 18. Photoaging causes numerous histologic, physiologic, and clinical changes; it also increases the risk for skin cancer. Photodamage can be prevented through the use of sun screens, protective clothing, and avoidance of the sun during peak intensity time. The only product approved by the FDA for the treatment of photodamage (fine wrinkles, mottled hyperpigmentation, and skin roughness), topical tretinoin emollient cream, may help prevent additional photoaging when it is used to treat existing photoaging. Other management options for photodamaged skin include alpha-hydroxy acids, antioxidants, antiandrogens, moisturizers, and exfoliants. In patients with excessive manifestations of photodamage, surgical management may be needed, including dermabrasion, chemical peels, soft tissue augmentation, laser resurfacing, botulism toxin, and Gortex threads. Clinicians must educate their patients about the most appropriate skin care regimen as well as approaches for preventing and treating common afflictions. In this way, women will have the best opportunity for having and maintaining healthy skin.
  2. Matrixyl 3000
  3. Matrikines and matricryptins: Implications for cutaneous cancers and skin repair
    Dermatologists are faced daily with the need to optimize skin repair and excise cutaneous cancers. The extracellular matrix plays a pivotal role in cellular migration, proliferation, and gene regulation during wound healing and progression of melanoma, basal cell carcinoma, and squamous cell carcinoma. Within the last few years, a new class of ligand, the matrikine or matricryptin, has been characterized as subdomains of various ECM proteins capable of signaling to the cell through receptors, such as growth factor receptors. Two classes exist: the "natural" matrikines, which signal directly from the extracellular milieu and "cryptic" matrikines (matricryptins) that require proteolytic processing to reveal the ligand or to release the ligand from its ECM protein. Unlike traditional soluble growth factors, most matrikines possess low binding affinity to their receptors and are often presented in multiple valency that likely increase avidity to receptors. The presentation of these ligands within the ECM can result in unique outcomes. The EGF-like repeats of tenascin-C and laminin-5 signal to EGFR preferentially to upregulate migration during skin repair and tumor progression. Other matrikines in collagen, elastin, decorin, and laminin-1 can promote chemotaxis, mitogenesis, and metastasis in cancers, such as melanoma. Finally, the unique properties of matrikines have been utilized in cancer therapeutics and tissue engineering. Within the next few years, the nature and function of this emerging class of matrikine ligands will have an impact on dermatology, as these proteins are altered in wound repair and skin diseases.
  4. Impaired skin barrier function in dermatologic disease and repair with moisturization
    There is a substantial body of data demonstrating that atopic dermatitis and various other skin diseases are associated with disturbances of skin barrier function as evidenced by an increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL), a decrease in water-binding properties, and a reduction in skin surface lipids, specifically levels of ceramides. The results of clinical studies suggest that these deficits can be addressed through the judicious use of appropriate moisturizers, which have been shown to improve skin hydration, reduce susceptibility to irritation, and restore the integrity of the stratum corneum. Some emollients also supply the compromised stratum corneum with vital lipids and accelerate barrier recovery. Moisturizers serve as an important first-line therapeutic option for patients with atopic dermatitis and other chronic skin diseases and can be highly beneficial in improving the clinical signs and symptoms of these challenging dermatologic conditions.
  5. Elastin as a matrikine
    The fact that elastin peptides, the degradation products of the extracellular matrix protein elastin, are chemotactic for numerous cell types, promote cell cycle progression and induce release of proteolytic enzymes by stromal and cancer cells, strongly suggests that their presence in tissues could contribute to tumour progression. Thus, elastin peptides qualify as matrikines, i.e. peptides originating from the fragmentation of matrix proteins and presenting biological activities. After a brief description of their origin, the biological activities of these peptides are reviewed, emphasising their potential role in cancer. The nature of their receptor and the signalling events it controls are also discussed. Finally, the structural selectivity of the elastin complex receptor is presented, leading to the concept of elastokine (matrikine originating from elastin fragmentation) and morpho-elastokine, i.e. peptides presenting a conformation similar to that of bioactive elastin peptides and mimicking their effects.
  6. Matrikines in the regulation of extracellular matrix degradation
    The term "matrikines" was coined for designating peptides liberated by partial proteolysis of extracellular matrix macromolecules, which are able to regulate cell activities. Among these peptides, some of them may modulate proliferation, migration, protease production, or apoptosis. In this review, we summarize the activity of matrikines derived from elastin and interstitial or basement membrane collagens on the regulation of matrix metalloproteinases expression and/or activation, and on the plasminogen/plasmin system. Due to their activity, matrikines may play a significant role in physiological or pathological processes such as wound healing or tumor invasion.
  7. Regulation of cell activity by the extracellular matrix: the concept of matrikines
    The activity of connective tissue cells is modulated by a number of factors present in their environment. In addition to the soluble factors such as hormones, cytokines or growth factors, cells also receive signals from the surrounding extracellular matrix (ECM) macromolecules. Moreover, they may degrade the ECM proteins and liberate peptides which may by themselves constitute new signals for the surrounding cells. Therefore, an actual regulation loop exists in connective tissue, constituted by peptides generated by ECM degradation and connective tissue cells. The term of "matrikine" has been proposed to designate such ECM-derived peptides able to regulate cell activity. In this review, we summarize some data obtained in our laboratory with two different matrikines: the tripeptide glycyl-histidyl-lysine (GHK) and the heptapeptide cysteinyl-asparaginyl-tyrosyl-tyrosyl-seryl-asparaginyl-serine (CNYYSNS). GHK is a potent activator of ECM synthesis and remodeling, whereas CNYYSNS is able to inhibit polymorphonuclear leukocytes activation and decrease the invasive capacities of cancer cells.
  8. Stimulation of skin's energy metabolism provides multiple benefits for mature human skin
    As an organism ages, there is a decline in mitochondrial function and cellular energy balance. This decline is both accelerated by and can cause the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) that damage nuclear and mitochondrial DNA, lipid membranes as well as structural and catalytic proteins, especially those involved in energetic pathways of cells. Further, ROS have also been linked to some of the detrimental skin changes that occur as a result of photoaging. We have previously shown that levels of Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10), a component of the respiratory chain in mitochondria, are reduced in skin cells from aging donors, and that topical supplementation can ameliorate processes involved in skin aging. Creatine is another important component of the cellular energy system and phosphocreatine, its phosphorylated form, functions as a reservoir for high energy phosphates. Unfortunately the creatine system and thus the energy storage mechanism in skin are negatively affected by aging and conditions of oxidative stress. This article reviews some of our in vivo data about the synergistic effects of combining a stabilized form of Creatine with CoQ10 and clearly depicts their beneficial effects as active ingredients in topical formulations.
  9. Coenzyme Q10, a cutaneous antioxidant and energizer
    The processes of aging and photoaging are associated with an increase in cellular oxidation. This may be in part due to a decline in the levels of the endogenous cellular antioxidant coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone, CoQ10). Therefore, we have investigated whether topical application of CoQ10 has the beneficial effect of preventing photoaging. We were able to demonstrate that CoQ10 penetrated into the viable layers of the epidermis and reduce the level of oxidation measured by weak photon emission. Furthermore, a reduction in wrinkle depth following CoQ10 application was also shown. CoQ10 was determined to be effective against UVA mediated oxidative stress in human keratinocytes in terms of thiol depletion, activation of specific phosphotyrosine kinases and prevention of oxidative DNA damage. CoQ10 was also able to significantly suppress the expression of collagenase in human dermal fibroblasts following UVA irradiation. These results indicate that CoQ10 has the efficacy to prevent many of the detrimental effects of photoaging.
  10. Coenzyme Q10--its importance, properties and use in nutrition and cosmetics
    Coenzyme Q10, or ubiquinone, is a nutrient--a vitamin-like substance which plays a crucial role in the generation of cellular energy an in free radical scavenging in the human body. After the age of 35 to 40, the organism begins to lose its ability to synthesize Co Q10 from food and its deficiency develops. Ageing, poor eating habits, stress and infection--they all affect our ability to provide adequate amounts of Co Q10. Therefore Co Q10 supplementation may be very helpful for the organism. The present summarizing study reports the history of the discovery and research, properties, biochemical effects, dosage of Co Q10 deficiency in the human body. A possible use of Co Q10 as a dietary supplement and an ingredient for topical cosmetic products is described.
  11. Antioxidant properties of 2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-6-(10-hydroxydecyl)-1,4-benzoquinone (idebenone)
    Idebenone [2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-6-(10-hydroxydecyl)-1,4-benzoquinone] is a synthetic analogue of coenzyme Q that is currently employed in the treatment of vascular and degenerative diseases of the central nervous system. There is some evidence to suggest that idebenone might function as an antioxidant; however, it has not been demonstrated whether this function pertains to the quinone or hydroquinone form of idebenone. Here we demonstrate that idebenone can scavenge a variety of free radical species, including organic radicals such as 2,2'-azinobis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) and diphenylpicrylhydrazyl, peroxyl and tyrosyl radicals, and peroxynitrite. Idebenone can also redox couple with hypervalent species of Mb or Hb, thus preventing lipid peroxidation promoted by these species. Likewise, idebenone inhibits microsomal lipid peroxidation induced by ADP-iron complexes or organic hydroperoxides. In so doing, idebenone prevents the destruction of cytochrome P450, which otherwise would accompany lipid peroxidation. Irrespective of the experimental system under investigation, idebenone functions by virtue of the electron-donating properties of the hydroquinone form. Redox coupling of this hydroquinone with free radicals generates the quinone compound, which per se lacks antioxidant activity. In many experiments, the antioxidant effects of idebenone become appreciable at approximately 2 microM, which is well in the range of plasma levels attainable in patients given oral doses of this drug. Moreover, comparative experiments have shown that the antioxidant efficiency of idebenone varies from no less than 50% to slightly more than 100% of that of vitamin E or Trolox. We would therefore propose that the neuroprotective effects of idebenone can be attributed, at least in part, to its ability to function as an antioxidant, involving redox cycling between hydroquinone and quinone.
  12. Physiological consequences of human skin aging.
    The expression and treatment of cutaneous disease in the elderly differ from those applicable to younger adults. Anatomical changes in aging skin result in altered physiological behavior and susceptibility to disease. Decreased epidermal renewal and tissue repair accompany the aging process. The rate of hair and nail growth declines, as well as the quantity of eccrine, apocrine, and sebum secretion. There are alterations in immune surveillance and antigen presentation with aging. The cutaneous vascular supply is decreased, leading to decreases in inflammatory response, absorption, and cutaneous clearance. Impaired thermal regulation, tactile sensitivity, and pain perception occur as one ages. We summarize the major changes that occur during the intrinsic aging process of the skin to facilitate the recognition and treatment of skin disease in the older patient
  13. Inhibitory effect of an ellagic acid-rich pomegranate extract on tyrosinase activity and ultraviolet-induced pigment
    A pomegranate extract (PE) from the rind containing 90% ellagic acid was tested for its skin-whitening effect. PE showed inhibitory activity against mushroom tyrosinase in vitro, and the inhibition by the extract was comparable to that of arbutin, which is a known whitening agent. PE, when administered orally, also inhibited UV-induced skin pigmentation on the back of brownish guinea pigs. The intensity of the skin-whitening effect was similar between guinea pigs fed with PE and those fed with L-ascorbic acid. PE reduced the number of DOPA-positive melanocytes in the epidermis of UV-irradiated guinea pigs, but L-ascorbic acid did not. These results suggest that the skin-whitening effect of PE was probably due to inhibition of the proliferation of melanocytes and melanin synthesis by tyrosinase in melanocytes. PE, when taken orally, may be used as an effective whitening agent for the skin.
  14. Pomegranate as a cosmeceutical source: pomegranate fractions promote proliferation and procollagen synthesis and inhibit matrix metalloproteinase-1 production in human skin cells
    Pomegranate (Punica granatum) is an ancient fruit with exceptionally rich ethnomedical applications. The peel (pericarp) is well regarded for its astringent properties; the seeds for conferring invulnerability in combat and stimulating beauty and fertility. Here, aqueous fractions prepared from the fruit's peel and fermented juice and lipophilic fractions prepared from pomegranate seeds were examined for effects on human epidermal keratinocyte and human dermal fibroblast function. Pomegranate seed oil, but not aqueous extracts of fermented juice, peel or seed cake, was shown to stimulate keratinocyte proliferation in monolayer culture. In parallel, a mild thickening of the epidermis (without the loss of ordered differentiation) was observed in skin organ culture. The same pomegranate seed oil that stimulated keratinocyte proliferation was without effect on fibroblast function. In contrast, pomegranate peel extract (and to a lesser extent, both the fermented juice and seed cake extracts) stimulated type I procollagen synthesis and inhibited matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1; interstitial collagenase) production by dermal fibroblasts, but had no growth-supporting effect on keratinocytes. These results suggest heuristic potential of pomegranate fractions for facilitating skin repair in a polar manner, namely aqueous extracts (especially of pomegranate peel) promoting regeneration of dermis, and pomegranate seed oil promoting regeneration of epidermis.
  15. Dual mechanisms of green tea extract (EGCG)-induced cell survival in human epidermal keratinocytes
    Beneficial effects attributed to green tea, such as its anticancer and antioxidant properties, may be mediated by (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG). In this study, the effects of EGCG on cell proliferation and UV-induced apoptosis were investigated in normal epidermal keratinocytes. When topically applied to aged human skin, EGCG stimulated the proliferation of epidermal keratinocytes, which increased the epidermal thickness. In addition, this topical application also inhibited the UV-induced apoptosis of epidermal keratinocytes. EGCG was found to increase the phosphorylation of Bad protein at the Ser112 and Ser136. Moreover, EGCG-induced Erk phosphorylation was found to be critical for the phosphorylation of Ser112 in Bad protein, and the EGCG-induced activation of the Akt pathway was found to be involved in the phosphorylation of Ser136. Furthermore, EGCG increased Bcl-2 expression but decreased Bax expression, causing an increase in the Bcl-2-to-Bax ratio. In addition, we demonstrate the differential growth inhibitory effects of EGCG on cancer cells. In conclusion, this study demonstrates that EGCG promotes keratinocyte survival and inhibits the UV-induced apoptosis via two mechanisms: by phosphorylating Ser112 and Ser136 of Bad protein through Erk and Akt pathways, respectively, and by increasing the Bcl-2-to-Bax ratio. Moreover, these two proposed mechanisms of EGCG-induced cell proliferation may differ kinetically to promote keratinocyte survival.
  16. Cutaneous photoprotection from ultraviolet injury by green tea polyphenols
    Application of green tea extracts resulted in a dose-dependent inhibition of the erythema response evoked by UV radiation. The (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) and (-)-epicatechin-3-gallate (ECG) polyphenolic fractions were most efficient at inhibiting erythema, whereas (-)-epigallocatechin (EGC) and (-)-epicatechin (EC) had little effect. On histologic examination, skin treated with green tea extracts reduced the number of sunburn cells and protected epidermal Langerhans cells from UV damage. Green tea extracts also reduced the DNA damage that formed after UV radiation. CONCLUSION: Polyphenolic extracts of green tea are effective chemopreventive agents for many of the adverse effects of sunlight on human health and may thus serve as natural alternatives for photoprotection.
  17. Skin photoprotection by green tea: antioxidant and immunomodulatory effects
    The in vitro and in vivo animal and human studies suggest that green tea polyphenols are photoprotective in nature, and can be used as pharmacological agents for the prevention of solar UVB light-induced skin disorders including photoaging, melanoma and nonmelanoma skin cancers after more clinical trials in humans.
  18. The green tea polyphenol (-)-epigallocatechin gallate and green tea can protect human cellular DNA from ultraviolet and visible radiation-induced damage
    Initial trials found that EGCG afforded concentration-dependent photoprotection to cultured human cells with a maximal activity at a culture concentration of 250 microM. The cells types tested (lung fibroblasts, skin fibroblasts and epidermal keratinocytes) demonstrated varying susceptibility to the UVR insult provided. The in vivo trials of green tea also demonstrated a photoprotective effect, with samples of peripheral blood cells taken after green tea consumption showing lower levels of DNA damage than those taken prior to ingestion when exposed to 12 min ultraviolet A (UVA) radiation. CONCLUSION: The studies showed that green tea and/or some constituents can offer some protection against UV-induced DNA damage in human cell cultures and also in human peripheral blood samples taken post-tea ingestion.
  19. Green tea polyphenols: DNA photodamage and photoimmunology
    Green tea is a popular beverage consumed worldwide. The epicatechin derivatives, which are commonly called 'polyphenols', are the active ingredients in green tea and possess antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-carcinogenic properties. Studies conducted by our group on human skin have demonstrated that green tea polyphenols (GTP) prevent ultraviolet (UV)-B-induced cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPD), which are considered to be mediators of UVB-induced immune suppression and skin cancer induction. GTP treated human skin prevented penetration of UV radiation, which was demonstrated by the absence of immunostaining for CPD in the reticular dermis. The topical application of GTP or its most potent chemopreventive constituent (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) prior to exposure to UVB protects against UVB-induced local as well as systemic immune suppression in laboratory animals. Additionally, studies have shown that EGCG treatment of mouse skin inhibits UVB-induced infiltration of CD11b+ cells. CD11b is a cell surface marker for activated macrophages and neutrophils, which are associated with induction of UVB-induced suppression of contact hypersensitivity responses. EGCG treatment also results in reduction of the UVB-induced immunoregulatory cytokine interleukin (IL)-10 in skin as well as in draining lymph nodes, and an elevated amount of IL-12 in draining lymph nodes. These in vivo observations suggest that GTPs are photoprotective, and can be used as pharmacological agents for the prevention of solar UVB light-induced skin disorders associated with immune suppression and DNA damage.
  20. Green tea and skin cancer: photoimmunology, angiogenesis and DNA repair
    Human skin is constantly exposed to numerous noxious physical, chemical and environmental agents. Some of these agents directly or indirectly adversely affect the skin. Cutaneous overexposure to environmental solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation (290-400 nm) has a variety of adverse effects on human health, including the development of melanoma and nonmelanoma skin cancers. Therefore, there is a need to develop measures or strategies, and nutritional components are increasingly being explored for this purpose. The polyphenols present in green tea (Camellia sinensis) have been shown to have numerous health benefits, including protection from UV carcinogenesis. (-)-Epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) is the major and most photoprotective polyphenolic component of green tea. In this review article, we have discussed the most recent investigations and mechanistic studies that define and support the photoprotective efficacy of green tea polyphenols (GTPs) against UV carcinogenesis. The oral administration of GTPs in drinking water or the topical application of EGCG prevents UVB-induced skin tumor development in mice, and this prevention is mediated through: (a) the induction of immunoregulatory cytokine interleukin (IL) 12; (b) IL-12-dependent DNA repair following nucleotide excision repair mechanism; (c) the inhibition of UV-induced immunosuppression through IL-12-dependent DNA repair; (d) the inhibition of angiogenic factors; and (e) the stimulation of cytotoxic T cells in a tumor microenvironment. New mechanistic information strongly supports and explains the chemopreventive activity of GTPs against photocarcinogenesis.
  21. A double-blind randomized clinical trial on the effectiveness of a daily glycolic acid 5% formulation in the treatment of photoaging
    Overall there were trends towards greater improvement or less worsening in the glycolic acid group for all clinical assessments for photoaging. There was statistically significant improvement favoring the active-cream in general skin texture and discoloration. There was a trend favoring glycolic acid in reduction of wrinkles, but this did not achieve statistical significance. CONCLUSION: Unneutralized 5% glycolic acid topical cream when used on a regular daily basis can improve some photoaging effects.
  22. Clinical improvement of photoaged skin with 50% glycolic acid. A double-blind vehicle-controlled study
    BACKGROUND: Although there is increasing interest in the use of glycolic acid in the treatment of photoaged skin, to our knowledge, no controlled study has been done to assess the efficacy or the mode of this agent. OBJECTIVE: The purpose of this study was to determine whether 50% glycolic acid can improve photoaged skin and to study the histological basis for this improvement. METHODS: Forty-one volunteers were recruited into this double-blind vehicle-controlled study. Glycolic acid (50%) or vehicle was applied topically for 5 minutes to one side of the face, forearms, and hands, once weekly for 4 weeks. Punch biopsies were taken at pretherapy and at 5 weeks for histologic study. RESULTS: Significant improvement noted included decrease in rough texture and fine wrinkling, fewer solar keratoses, and a slight lightening of solar lentigines. Histology showed thinning of the stratum corneum, granular layer enhancement, and epidermal thickening. Some specimens showed an increase in collagen thickness in the dermis. CONCLUSION: The results of this study demonstrate that the application of 50% glycolic acid peels improves mild photoaging of the skin.
  23. The effects of an estrogen and glycolic acid cream on the facial skin of postmenopausal women: a randomized histologic study
    A prospective, randomized, double-blind study was conducted to determine if estradiol and glycolic acid creams produced a significant reversal of epidermal and dermal markers of aging and if the cumulative effect of the creams was greater than either alone. Sixty-five patients applied a cream containing 0.01% estradiol or 15% glycolic acid, alone or in combination, to one side of the face, and a vehicle cream to the opposite side, for 6 months. A 2-mm punch biopsy was obtained from the hairline of each patient and processed for analysis. The estradiol treatment produced a 23% increase in epidermal thickness (P = .00458); the glycolic acid, a 27% increase (P = .00467); and the combination, a 38% increase (P = .000181). All groups showed a statistically significant improvement in reversing markers (rete peg pattern, epidermal thickness) of skin aging. Although not statistically significant (P = .1), a cumulative effect was seen when estradiol and glycolic acid creams were used in combination.
  24. Photoprotective and antiinflammatory effects of topical glycolic acid
    RESULTS: When UVB-burned skin was treated with glycolic acid daily for 7 days (site 2), a 16% reduction in irritation was observed compared to nontreated skin (site 1), implying that skin healed sooner when treated with glycolic acid. When a comparison of nontreated skin was made to skin treated with glycolic acid for 3 weeks prior to UVB exposure (site 1 vs site 3), a sun protection factor (SPF) of 2.4 was achieved. When a comparison of skin treated for 3 weeks was made to skin treated for 3 weeks and chemically peeled (site 3 vs site 4) the data implied that the chemical peel reduced the SPF value of skin treated with glycolic by approximately 50%, however, an SPF trend of 1.7 was still obtained when compared with untreated skin. CONCLUSIONS. The studies demonstrated that topical glycolic acid provides a photoprotective effect to pretreated skin yielding an SPF of approximately 2.4. In addition, when glycolic acid is applied to irradiated skin, it accelerates resolution of erythema. The data obtained from both studies support the hypothesis that glycolic acids acts as an antioxidant.
  25. Use of topical ascorbic acid and its effects on photodamaged skin topography
    A 3-month daily regimen of topical ascorbic acid provided objective and subjective improvement in photodamaged facial skin. Skin replica optical profilometry is an objective method for quantification of the skin surface texture changes.
  26. Marked aging-related decline in efficiency of oxidative phosphorylation in human skin fibroblasts
    An extensive analysis has been carried out of mitochondrial biochemical and bioenergetic properties of fibroblasts, mostly skin-derived, from a large group of subjects ranging in age between 20 wk fetal and 103 yr. A striking age-related change observed in a fundamental process underlying mitochondrial biogenesis and function was the very significant decrease in rate of mitochondrial protein synthesis in individuals above 40 yr. The analysis of endogenous respiration rate revealed a significant decrease in the age range from 40 to 90 yr and a tendency to uncoupling in the samples from subjects above 60 yr. A surprising finding was the occurrence of a subgroup of individuals >or=90 yr old whose skin fibroblasts exhibited an exceptionally high respiration rate. This high rate was not due to respiration uncoupling, rather pointing to a compensatory phenomenon, not involving an increase in mtDNA content, in the corresponding skin fibroblast populations, or, possibly, to a selection of a different cell type secondary to more extensive dermal atrophy. The most important aging-related phenotypic effects observed were those that affected the cell oxidative phosphorylation (OX-PHOS) capacity. These were, in particular, the very significant reduction in the ratio of uncoupled to oligomycin-inhibited endogenous respiration observed in intact fibroblasts, which pointed to a decrease with donor's age in the control of respiration by the mitochondrial membrane potential, the very significant decrease in efficiency of OX-PHOS, as determined by novel in situ measurements of P:O ratios, and, consistent with these results, the very significant reduction in the respiratory control ratios. These findings clearly pointed to a dramatic mitochondrial dysfunction, which would lead to a decrease in ATP synthesis rate, with the observed decline in mitochondrial protein synthesis rate being a likely contributing factor. These observations have important implications for understanding the biology of aging, as well as the pathogenesis of aging-related degenerative diseases.
  27. alpha-Hydroxy acid-based cosmetic procedures. Guidelines for patient management
    alpha-Hydroxy acid (AHA) peels and home regimens have recently been recognized as important adjunctive therapy in a variety of conditions including photodamage, actinic damage, melasma, hyperpigmentation disorders, acne, and rosacea. Overall in our experience and in the literature, AHAs have a proven level of safety and efficacy in a variety of skin types. Although their exact mechanism of action is unknown, it has been demonstrated that AHAs improve these disorders by thinning the stratum corneum, promoting epidermolysis, dispersing basal layer melanin, and increasing collagen synthesis within the dermis. In patients with photodamage, AHA peels and topical products are often combined with retinoids and other antioxidants for maximum benefit. Similarly, synergistic effects of fluorouracil and glycolic acid are observed in the treatment of diffuse actinic keratoses. For patients with melasma, AHA peels and combination products containing bleaching agents such as hydroquinone, kojic acid, and glycolic acid seem to have increased efficacy. Acne and rosacea patients can see improved results when standard regimens like antibacterials and topical retinoids are supplemented with AHA peels and lotions. However, care should always be taken prior to commencing treatment with AHA peels and topical products. By obtaining a thorough history and physical examination, the physician will identify any specific factors like medications, prior procedures and medical conditions which can affect the outcome of the peel. During the interview, there should be open discussion of patient questions and concerns so that realistic expectations can be made. Pre- and post-peel regimens should also be reviewed in full as patient compliance is essential to ensure the success of a series of AHA peels.
  28. Skin care, chemical face peeling, and skin rejuvenation
    Chemical face peeling is the application of solutions to the face to lift off various layers of the skin and remove wrinkles. Three types of chemical peels are currently available. Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) peels are the most mild and, in lower concentrations, can be applied by nurses. Trichloracetic acid (TCA) peels are designed for peels of medium depth. Phenol peels are the oldest form of chemical peels and are used to remove deeper wrinkles. Skin care, including sun block, is important to the success of all three types of peel.
  29. Alpha-hydroxyacid chemical peeling agents: case studies and rationale for safe and effective use
    Chemical peeling is an in-office procedure that involves the application of a chemical agent to the skin to induce controlled destruction or exfoliation of old skin and stimulation of new epidermal growth with more evenly distributed melanin. When peel agents reach the dermal layer, important wound-healing activities occur that cause skin remodeling and skin smoothing, both antiaging benefits. There are a number of key factors in selecting a peeling agent and procedure, and each is discussed. Variables to consider are the peeling agent and its formulation, the concentration of the agent, the patient's skin type, the site to be peeled, the skin preparation procedure prior to and immediately preceding the application of the agent, the application method, the duration of contact, and the patient's medical history and lifestyle. Various types of peels are discussed. Of particular interest are superficial chemical peels, which offer great flexibility over a range of skin types and conditions with minimal to no "downtime." Alpha-hydroxyacid (AHA) peels are superficial and can be combined with other cosmetic procedures in the office to maximize benefits. In addition, AHA peels work well when combined with supportive homecare products including AHAs or polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), topical retinoids, and antiacne/antirosacea treatments. Case studies are presented of patients using AHA peels for the treatment of acne and hyperpigmentation in a variety of skin types, including Asian skin.
  30. Cosmetic use of alpha-hydroxy acids
    Frequent and daily use of cosmetic and skin-care products that contain alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) moisturizes the skin and produces smoother, less-wrinkled skin surfaces. The cosmetic products developed as astringents and exfoliants diminish skin scales and remove excess skin oil. New studies suggest that photodamaged skin improves with AHA treatment.
  31. Clinical efficacy assessment in photodamaged skin of 0.5% and 1.0% idebenone
    Idebenone is an antioxidant lower molecular weight analogue of coenzyme Q10. Previously, idebenone was shown to be a very effective antioxidant in its ability to protect against cell damage from oxidative stress in a variety of biochemical, cell biological, and in vivo methods, including its ability to suppress sunburn cell (SBC) formation in living skin. However, no clinical studies have been previously conducted to establish the efficacy of idebenone in a topical skincare formulation for the treatment of photodamaged skin. In this nonvehicle control study, 0.5% and 1.0% idebenone commercial formulations were evaluated in a clinical trial for topical safety and efficacy in photodamaged skin. Forty-one female subjects, aged 30-65, with moderate photodamaged skin were randomized to use a blind labelled (either 0.5% or 1.0% idebenone in otherwise identical lotion bases) skincare preparation twice daily for six weeks. Blinded expert grader assessments for skin roughness/dryness, fine lines/wrinkles, and global improvement in photodamage were performed at baseline, three weeks and six weeks. Electrical conductance readings for skin surface hydration and 35 mm digital photography were made at baseline after six weeks. Punch biopsies were taken from randomly selected subjects, baseline and after six weeks, and stained for certain antibodies (interleukin IL-6, interleukin IL-1b, matrixmetalloproteinase MMP-1, collagen I) using immunofluorescence microscopy. After six weeks' use of the 1.0% idebenone formula, a 26% reduction in skin roughness/dryness was observed, a 37% increase in skin hydration, a 29% reduction in fine lines/wrinkles, and a 33% improvement in overall global assessment of photodamaged skin. For the 0.5% idebenone formulation, a 23% reduction in skin roughness/dryness was observed, a 37% increase in skin hydration, a 27% reduction in fine lines/wrinkles, and a 30% improvement in overall global assessment of photodamaged skin. The immunofluorescence staining revealed a decrease in IL-1b, IL-6, and MMP-1 and an increase in collagen I for both concentrations.
  32. A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study on the clinical efficacy of oral treatment with DermaVite on ageing symptoms of the skin
    In this double-blind, placebo-controlled study, 40 women with ageing symptoms of the skin were randomized to receive DermaVite, a new preparation containing marine proteins, alpha-lipoic acid, pine bark extract, vitamins and minerals (n = 20), or placebo (n = 20) twice daily for 6 months. Objective measurements of skin thickness and elasticity, together with subjective clinical assessments of various parameters (fine wrinkles, coarse wrinkles, tactile roughness and teleangiectasia) were used to evaluate changes after 2, 4 and 6 months' treatment. Self-evaluations were also made by the study participants. There was a significant improvement in skin quality in both objective and subjective parameters after treatment with Dermavite compared with placebo. Participants' self-evaluations also showed a statistically significant difference in favour of the active treatment. The treatment was very well tolerated. Based on this efficacy and tolerability study, DermaVite can be considered a suitable therapy for ageing symptoms of the skin.
  33. Randomized, placebo-controlled, double blind study on the clinical efficacy of a cream containing 5% alpha-lipoic acid related to photoageing of facial skin
    BACKGROUND: alpha-lipoic acid (LA) or the reduced form dihydrolipoate (DHLA) is a potent scavenger with anti-inflammatory properties. Previous uncontrolled studies with topical treatment with 5% LA-containing creams indicate a beneficial effect on photoageing skin. OBJECTIVE: The purpose of this study was to investigate whether a cream containing 5% LA showed any advantages concerning a number of the criteria associated with ageing of the facial skin, compared with an identical cream lacking LA. MATERIAL AND METHODS: Thirty-three women, mean age 54.4 years, were included in this controlled study. After randomization half the face was treated twice daily for 12 weeks with the LA cream and the other half with the control cream. The following methods of assessment were used: self-evaluation by the test subjects, clinical evaluation, photographic evaluation and laser profilometry. Profilometry was performed before the start of treatment and at the end. RESULTS: All four methods of assessment showed a statistically significant improvement on the LA-treated half of the face. Laser profilometry, the most objective method used, showed an average decrease in skin roughness of 50.8% (44.9-54.0) on the LA-treated side, compared with 40.7% (32.4-48.7) on the placebo-treated half of the face P < 0.001 (Wilcoxon matched pairs test). CONCLUSIONS: It is indicated that 12 weeks of treatment with a cream containing 5% LA improves clinical characteristics related to photoageing of facial skin.
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